Azamara's New "Celebrity" - Pimental To Take The Reigns -UPDATED

Since its launch Azamara Cruise Line has been neither fish nor fowl.  It is a wonderful product, but has been stuck in sort of abyss between Celebrity (its premium brand "owner") and Oceania (an ultra-premium competitor operating virtually identical ships but with a much stronger brand identity). 

With limited marketing on top of that, I unfortunately have heard "What is Azamara?" much more than "Great Itineraries.  Great Price." Royal Caribbean (owner of Celebrity and, therefore, Azamara) has, obviously, also heard the same things and had decided to shake things up a bit.

Although not officially announced yet (now it is!), the word is that Larry Pimental, the former head of SeaDream Yacht Club, is going to be taking over the reigns (or, better, finally someone will specifically be taking them!) and will report directly to Royal Caribbean, while Celebrity will merely be providing the operational support.  He is now the President and CEO of Azamara Cruises.

While there is no question that operating a 648 passenger upscale ship is far different from the 100 passenger luxury SeaDream Yachts, Pimental also brings his experience as the head of Seabourn (when it was in its infancy) and the decision to bring in the ill-matched 748 passenger Seabourn Sun onboard.  As a result, there can be no question that Pimental "gets" the differences and understand how the product needs to be differentiated from both the luxury market and the 2,000 - 3,000 passenger cruise ship market.

I have listened to Pimental's energetic approach and almost gospel-like enthusiasm for SeaDream (before the financial problems of its owner caused a relationship-ending riff), so I have no question that he has some sort of vision and will be working hard to make it happen.  My concern, though, is how he will meld with a cruise behemoth when he has spent so many of the last years working in a boutique setting.

I am looking forward to the formal announcement and hearing what the vision is.

Opinion: "Revenge at Sea" - Christopher Elliott Engages in Yellow Journalism on MSNBC; A Misleading Attack on the Cruise Industry

Last week I received a notification of an article by Christopher Elliott entitled "Revenge at Sea" - Five Ways Passengers Are Getting Even With Cruise Lines. Frankly, it shocked me to read this headline at a time that cruise lines are sharply discounting prices in an effort to lure hesitant guests onboard and, thereby provide incredible values. Something about biting the hand or killing the goose that just jumped into my mind.

At the outset I must disclose that Mr. Elliott's website (http://www.elliott.org/) describes itself as "This site is one of the last remaining efforts to bring quality, commercial-free, consumer-focused travel journalism to the Web." But then two lines later he asks for donations, "You can support this site now using a major credit card" ("commercial-free"???) followed by a very short list of "underwriters". Self-promotion and questionable tactics aside, keep the maxim, "Let the buyer beware" in your thoughts.

Now... as I read the article I realized that the perspective is, to start, from a passenger on the Carnival Glory that moaned about the cruise being marketed as "all inclusive" and then he was hit for $30 in specialty dining fees, drink charges, aggressive photographers and a mandatory gratuity. Huh? Who told this man that Carnival was "all inclusive"? There is nothing on Carnival's website or marketing that even hints at that. It is, simply stated, a knowingly false premise...which Mr. Elliott clearly knew and did not correct.

Then he criticize Royal Caribbean for providing its guests with the option...I repeat, option...of purchasing for $14.95 the same upgraded steak they might select in Chops (it's extra cost restaurant at $25 per person). Personally I think that is a great idea...and allows someone to enjoy a better meal for potentially one third the cost (ex. the husband wants the steak, but the wife doesn't and they don't want to dress up). If you think I am making that up, read my review of the Mariner of the Seas (It is actually four parts) where in I complimented Royal Caribbean on the main dining room decor and noted I would have eaten there more often if the food was the quality of what I ate in Chops. Now options are worth someone revenge? But I digress...

Then the author twists his sordid story into how this somehow relates to the Park West Auctions lawsuit for ripping off customers with alleged fakes and overpriced "art"...which the cruise lines obviously get a cut. What does that have to do with anything? Was that ever pitched as part of an "all inclusive" experience. And I have commented about Park West in this blog: Piracy or Ignorance on the High Seas - Art Auctions.
This effects a very small portion of the cruising public...and if they are complaining about $30 for dinner in a specialty restaurant they are not dropping the kind of money that brought Park West under attack.

Mr. Elliott then lays out the actual premise, "But in a series of interviews with passengers and industry experts, a slightly more complex picture starts to surface — that of profit-starved cruise lines pulling out all the stops to attract new customers and of penny-pinching passengers who know they have them over a barrel at last." Didn't I mention at the outset that the cruise lines are courting passengers, not trying to rip them off? UPon what good faith basis Mr. Elliott bury this mid-way in his article and then leave it as though never mentioned?

So these "penny-pinching passengers"...as they have finally been identified...are then given a list of five ways to "get back" at the cruise lines...forgetting that not a single rational reason for this aggressive, negative, emotion has yet been provided. You are going to love them...they really get the cruise lines "over a barrel":

1. Wait until the last minute to book - As I have said, that can really work against you! The least expensive cabins probably will be gone (a horrid thought for THAT kind of penny-pincher) and the better cabins in in any category may be gone. Of course, your ability to pre-plan, get the best airfare, etc. all go out the window as well. Mr. Elliot, you claim on your side, "His focus is’t on the destination, or even the journey, but on the tools you need for a successful trip. No other journalist has his depth of knowledge when it comes to offering practical travel advice, useful strategies and helpful tips." This strategy benefits who exactly and in what way?


2. "Smuggle alcohol onboard" - Wait a minute! You first say the cruise is supposedly "all inclusive" and then you say how to plan around it not being that. And you claim to be the "Travel Troubleshooter" for a major travel magazine. You tell people to break their contract with the cruise line by pouring vodka into a water bottle? While I do not agree with the alcohol prohibition (save the former Carnival passengers who would bring coolers of beer and the like), there is a difference between putting a bottle of whisky in your suitcase and boorish behaviors being encouraged.

3. Don't take the ship's tours. Now I am usually not a fan of ship's tours, but they are very popular for a reason. If you don't want to see Tulum or a specific museum which is cost-prohibitive, so be it. Take a taxi to the beach for $20 rather than a tour for $49 each, absolutely. But to seek revenge by screwing up your vacation by not going on a tour or increasing your stress by making private arrangements? What is it exactly that you are getting your revenge for? What way does that put a cruise line "over a barrel" when it, in reality is only hurting the passenger's vacation?

4. Avoid the upsell. I don't get this at all. If you don't want to eat at the specialty restaurant (the vast majority never have...and they couldn't function as they would be overwhelmed otherwise...ask NCL!) then don't eat there. The author points to a coupon for a free lunch at Johnny Rockets on RCCL, but that has been a marketing item since the venue was established...just like the buy one-get one sales held all over the place. Mr. Elliott, you aren't intentionally misrepresenting the facts because you have a problem with the travel industry are you?

5. Stay at home. Well, there is a non-starter. Don't take a cruise because you want to take out your revenge. Ever heard the saying, "Cut off your nose to spite your face?". You can complain about this charge or that upsell, but the fact is that the VALUE has never been greater. Pay $599 rather than $999 and get hit with $75 in additional costs? That sounds like a bargain for me. (But, I still am wondering what those "additional" costs are. Not one has been mentioned!)

So what we have here is a bogus and irresponsible article trying to create controversy where none, in reality...though may emotionally...exists. Cruises have never been a better value...ever. You can break it down and want this different or that, but the trash that Christopher Elliott pushes in his article are clearly, to me, based upon his desire to get published rather than to assist anyone with a credible article.

More importantly, Mr. Elliot's effort to exploit the naive penny-pincher (as he calls them) into creating non-existent issues can only harm those innocents. The most recent problem posted (which was two months ago) was a person wanting Princess to refund a $200 onboard booking made 4 years ago some other way than by crediting back his credit card account which had been closed. Princess had properly advised the passenger of the process which was complicated by the passenger's action of closing the account rather than the cruise line doing anything wrong. Mr. Elliott intentionally titled his article "Is My Cruise Refund Really Sunk?" when he knew it never was.

In short, Christopher Elliott most certainly appears to be engaging in yellow journalism. At least that is my opinion. I wouldn't trust that man to assist me with a vacation...ever.

MSNBC, you should know better.

Ship Happens, You See It Happening, You Step On The Ship Anyway And...

I am fascinated, and baffled, by what is now happening with the Regent Voyager and its passengers.  While Regent Seven Seas is encountering what can only be considered the "perfect storm" of logistical and public relations nightmares, there are some passengers who are demanding perfection...when they were given an "out" which would have avoided the entire situation.

For those unaware, the Regent Voyager was on its World Cruise and as it left Singapore it snagged a fishing net in one of its azipod propulsion units.  While it was hoped dislodging the net would fix the problem, it didn't.  Then it was hoped that replacing a seal would work and it didn't.  This left the Voyager with one of its pods disabled and its passengers in Dubai...which is a nice place to visit, but not a place you can undertake sophisticated ship repairs with any efficiency..nor a place with much capacity for flights back to the United States.

Regent then worked out a number of options for its World Cruise and segment guests; albeit none of them perfect.  (Perfect would have been the ship is fixed and the cruise continued unchanged.)  One of the options was to stay with the ship as it traveled to Rome on a substantially reduced port itinerary with a significant discount and other compensation. 

For the life of me I cannot understand why anyone who does not have a "go with the flow" approach to life would ever, ever, ever choose this option.  Well, let me correct that if someone, say Mark Conroy, President of Regent Seven Seas, was to tell me (as he tends to do about things) that all will be fine and you will have a great time as we have many things planned for you, then someone of a more structured constitution might be tempted to take this "great deal".  Even still, logic would have it that it was a fluid situation and that many things would change as more was arranged...knowing what was put together was done in literally a day and would need tweaking.

So now there are reports that some (not all) of the passengers are playing, "What can we complain about now?"  And there is an infamous Regent Cheerleader that has turned to posting nasty and unfounded rumors about repairs which have not even been undertaken possibly failing and that Prestige Cruise Holdings (Regent's parent company) might not have sufficient funds to make the repairs, provide compensation or operate properly.  I am well and truly baffled by the motivation of these people.  Remembering that I am a big critic of the Regent product from a luxury standpoint and a bigger critic of Mark Conroy, I find the aforementioned conduct inexcusable. 

I have it on good authority that Prestige Cruise Holdings is doing just fine (fine be relative considering the state of the economy).  There is no indication of financial troubles and, in fact, Regent took the opportunity to address some issues on the Regent Navigator in a brief wet-dock just the other day (after a charter).  This is not something a company would do if there was financial doom on the horizon.  (Compare Silversea deferring/canceling the upgrades to the Silver Cloud.)

Unless you know the actual defects in the pod and what the repairs are to be, you could not have even the slightest ability to determine what might or might not be accomplished in X number of days.  Nor would you know if there is a cushion built into the timing so as to avoid another cruise being missed; so a 10 day repair might be scheduled for 14 just to sync up with the next cruise.  There are also the different repair scenarios such as "We will try A and hopefully that will work.  If A doesn't do it, then we are ready to also do B, etc."  There is a methodology that needs to be followed with realism rather than optimism.  That IS the ship repair industry.  I know...I do this stuff.

Now, back on the ship, a few passengers tout the cries of some crew being dissatisfied with management and not being given the best options.  No kidding.  This is found on literally every ship, and when there is stress and a willing ear, the troublesome crew (actually engaging in misconduct worthy of their termination:  complaining to guests) have a field day gossiping.  So these few passengers exacerbate their less then good time by focusing on these negatives and then publishing them...I guess to "get back at Regent" because they opted to take a heavily discounted cruise which they knew would be less than perfect and their gamble that it would nonetheless be near-perfect did not pan out.

So the reasonably expected imperfect cruise is continuing and the options Regent has developed are not going to be perfect (and those that should be reasonably acceptable will be rejected out of emotion and vengeance rather than reasonably negotiated to something more aligned with their individual needs...remembering that if you are perceived as never going to be satisfied, there is no reason to do more).  But Regent will get over it and the passengers that do go with the flow will be relatively content if not happy.  And the disgruntled ones will remain disgruntled (lost causes).  Reports of "this is good and that is bad" is not going to be helpful to anyone...including the ones doing the reporting.

I say:  "Let Regent get the ship to Italy for the repairs and make them.  Then let's see where we are."  I would be content with essentially a transatlantic without the "Atlantic" with so many sea days.  If you don't believe me, read my experience on the Royal Caribbean Mariner of the Seas last year when the entire cruise was disrupted by a hurricane:  A Hurricane Runs Through It...Almost.

A Day At Sea is Better Than a Day at Work!

Another Reason for Caution When Relying on Too Avid a Poster - Compensating Good Reviews.

A reader of this blog forwarded to me the following article:  http://consumerist.com/5166291/royal-caribbean-caught-infiltrating-review-sites-with-viral-marketing-team .  (I am fascinated how timely it is considering our recent discussions.)

Basically it discusses Royal Caribbean scouring the internet (and mainly Cruise Critic) for 50 of their most avid, but well written and positive, posters dubbed "Royal Caribbean Champions".  Their reward, after being monitored, was an invitation to a pre-inaugural sailing on the Liberty of the Seas. 

Now, I am sure most, if not all, of the posters were very happy with Royal Caribbean (and, as I mentioned in my extended review of my cruise last year on the Mariner of the Seas Mariner of the Seas Review (4 Parts) there are many happy with this product), but if there was something amiss I dare say they would be a bit more hesitant not to mention it.  To be fair, they are not in the business, so I would not expect anything different.  There is the saying, "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth" and they, I am sure, are wise enough posters to follow that advise.

There are many instances when a line gives special treatment to their supporters.  Regent does it too.  In fact, I am aware that Seabourn even did it - once - a few years ago...and I am very confident it will never do it again. (The postings were great, but the post-cruise "Now I am special...forever" became a problem.)

Selfishly, how about Regent Seven Seas or Silversea giving me a free cruise to show me how wrong I am?  :-)

Troubled Waters on the Luxury Cruise Front...And A Safe Harbor: Seabourn

Over the past days I have seen a number of troubling things happening in the luxury cruise market.  I preface my comments below by stating just because it is "troubling" it doesn't mean it is a disaster.  So please take a breath and then read on....

One of my Seabourn client's wrote two weeks ago, "These markets are taking their toll though. people are scared on the ship and the talk at dinner is often about the "market." Thought we could get away." 

But just yesterday, upon her return, the email was remarkably different:

"We are back from another perfect Seabourn experience. The weather was magnificent, food seemed more delicious than ever and we had a great time. It is the ideal vacation for us. So ideal that I'm sure you know by now, along with [our friends], we have already signed up for the next trip."

With the concept of "Is taking...or even thinking of taking...a luxury cruise at a time like this?" at the fore of most people's minds, the cruise lines are feeling the pinch.  The question becomes, from the guest's perspective, how much trouble are the cruise lines?  That is not, in most cases, an easy question to answer.

Case in point:  Royal Caribbean/Celebrity/Azamara, etc. (albeit not luxury lines).  This week it announced record 3rd quarter earnings, but great concern for the future.  This raised concerns over cash flow. Fortunately, it assured the markets by announcing it has $1.4 Billion dollars in cash and no need for new financing.

But on the luxury front the story, at least for some, MAY be a bit different:

First, Regent pushed off its heavily touted new ship, then it announced the ending of its relationship with the Paul Gauguin and now rumors abound that its $40 million dollar refurbishment of two of its three ships will be cut back (though this has not been confirmed.) and its third ship, Navigator, will be waiting about 2 more years for any upgrades...if at all. While all this may well be prudent business (a good thing), it is evidence that reliance on the perception of their being a high profit/cash flow "gravy train" in luxury cruising may have been a bit too much. 

Then , Crystal announced a very generous reworking of its booking policies so that you cancel within 45 days of departure without incurring penalty.  To me this signaled a concern for getting people to book cruises they were "just not sure about"  and to get them onboard the ships...to, in part, generate onboard revenue.  There is a great truth that once someone books a cruise they become emotionally invested and, therefore, are less likely to cancel it even if times get rough.  It  did not concern me much since it does not seek to keep your cash if you cancel.

Then Silversea came out with drastically discounted cruises...and a 25% travel agent commission on close in sailings.  (I did not previously mention the amount, but it quickly was spread publicly over the internet, so what the heck.)  This is a clear cry for cash.  To me, and honestly to most of my clients I have spoken to about it, it is a Red Flag that Silversea may be in serious trouble.  A cruise line cannot sell a $10,000 cruise at a 40-50% discount (OK, it is really at a 35% discount, since a 10% Early Booking Savings already applied) and then discount it another 25% for the travel agent's (frankly, perverse) commission.  The result, at least for me, has been interesting:  Not a single booking.  Rather, the questions are uniformly, "I am uncomfortable booking with Silversea.  Will my deposit and final payment be protected?  Do I need added insurance...and from whom?  Will my cruise actually take place?" 

Now SeaDream has announced a "Cancel Anytime Within 48 Hours of Departure and Get a 100% Credit" toward a future cruise within 18 months thereafter.  This is, again, very scary...and SeaDream is quite a fine product.  SeaDream had always prided itself on its charter schedule being its base.  But charters are drying up as corporations are not making the same profits and perceptions of such expenditures are presently more negative then positive.  Being a unique product it is not the easiest cruise experience to get people to consider and, honestly, not many travel agents even think about SeaDream as an option.  With its new program, a more aggressive play on the new Crystal approach, SeaDream will keep your cash so that it operates today with a (hopefully) positive cash flow and worry about what cruise you take later.  Clearly this short-term strategy is worrisome.

Seabourn has, at least for now, taken a different approach.  Ala Tiffany's and Louis Vuitton, it is taking the approach of Stability.  It has not changed its deposit policy.  It has not changed its cancellation policy.  It has not offered travel agents any increased (or absurd) commissions.  Has Seabourn reduced some amenities?  Yes, such as the less-and-less popular once a cruise complimentary tours. Seabourn has done, possibly with a bit more aggressiveness, what it has always done when there is a slower selling sailing:  It has offered a better deal...but never "giving away the store".  For example, its $1,000 off on any 2009 Med Sailing is a way to lower its prices for some and to, possibly, attract new business.  (Truth be told, that promotion has caused me more headaches than happiness because the vast majority of my clients already had a better deal since they were on 14 day or longer cruises or on Club Signature Value sailing offering 50% off.) 

Will Seabourn be making better or different deals?  My guess is: Yes, but with a caveat.  When you are not taking drastic actions (because you do not need to:  Stability), you can tailor your promotions to the then existing market (subject to forecasting sailing performance).  So will there be some offers for complimentary upgrades?  Sure.  Will there be added values?  I am confident there will be.  But will it give you a sense of desperation?  I am confident it will not.

Seabourn is mostly concerned with the long term...because it has no short term need for cash.  Yes, it wants full ships and, after being spoiled with, consistently selling out cruises, the concept of empty suites is a bit hard to come to grips with...but a few empty suites does not create a disaster.  Plain and simple:  Seabourn is focused on keeping "luxury" luxury.

When I think of Seabourn I keep thinking of the old commercial, "We Make Money the Old Fashion Way.  We Earn It!" 

How does it make you feel?

Celebrity and Royal Caribbean to End Fuel Supplements

Effective November 10, 2008 Celebrity Cruises and Royal Caribbean Cruise Line will no longer charge fuel supplement for cruises scheduled to depart on or after January 1, 2010.

For 2009 and 2010 cruises booked prior to November 10, 2008 RCCL will determine on a quarterly basis whether fuel supplements will be refunded. Refunds, in the form of an onboard credit, will be provided if the closing price of West Texas Intermediate fuel is $65 or less, at the closing time of the New York Mercantile Exchange, two weeks prior to the beginning of the upcoming calendar quarter. When those conditions are met, an onboard credit will be provided to all guests on sailings that begin during the upcoming calendar quarter.


Put simply, adjustments will be made only four (4) times a year.  That will be done two weeks prior to the beginning of each calendar quarter.  So, for example, if on March 16, 2009 the price of oil is $65 those cruises departing during the period of April -June 2009 would have the fuel supplement refunded by way of an onboard credit.

This is a far less cumbersome formula than that being implemented by Carnival.  I think it may be a balancing between using an understandable method with some of the risk spread versus trying to be as accurate as possible.  I can't say that one is "better" than the other.  What I can say is that I am glad this is happening sooner rather than later.

Fuel Supplements Remain: The Cost to Cruise...and How Farming Gives the Answer.

Every morning at 7:00 a.m. I enjoy my "Breakfast with the Farmers" at the local coffee shop. You never know what is going to be the topic or topics of the day. And, readers, you need to stay with me on this one. It will all come together; I am not just rambling!

Yesterday we were discussing the best way to install a French drain near a paddock...only to be interrupted by a phone call: One of the guys just shot the first 8 point buck of the season and we had to come outside to see it in the back of his truck. Then it was back inside to discussing Charley and Arnold, a gentleman farmer's two pet pigs and how they soon would transform from pets to dinner.

Today the topics were much different. One farmer asked us to guess what he was quoted per ton for a common fertilizer. Another guessed something he thought was outrageous: $600. Wrong: It was over $1,000. The farmers are thinking about accepting lower yields next year by not fertilizing this fall, as net they just might make more money...or at least not lose any.

Then another farmer said his diesel fuel supplier called offering him "off road" diesel for $3.10 a gallon. The farmer, actually be quite astute said, "Last year when oil was at $100 you were charging $2.49 a gallon. Oil is now $96, so you are way too high. Call me back when the price drops more." (We see the same thing at the gas pump, don't we?!)

Someone then noted that "off road" diesel was selling for less than home heating oil; which, of course, made no sense since it is a far more refined product. (Home heating oil has far more sulfur and particulates in it.) The reason was then given: The home heating oil companies purchased futures contracts and were saddled with the contracted for higher prices.

I then started thinking about the fuel supplements which the cruise lines are charging. Both Carnival Corp. and Royal Caribbean have stated in the just the past few days that they will not be reducing (or, heaven forbid) eliminating the fuel supplements now because the oil market is so volatile. I think it is a bit more than that, however.

Just as the guy who is selling the fertilizer today is incorporating the past months effects on his operating costs and just as the diesel fuel company is charging 25% more despite the current oil prices and just as the the home heating company is still being charged more (though they guessed months ago the price was a good one) so they have to charge you more, the cruise lines' operations and costs are not tied directly to the present day oil prices.

Also keep in mind that there was a good bit of hedging that the dollar would continue to drop, so many contracts might well have been priced keyed to the Euro. With dollar much stronger at present (which is based on the unexpected weakness in the European economy, rather than confidence in the U.S. one), the cost for the purchaser can also have increased since it now takes more Euros to equal a dollar.

So whether the cruise lines have longer term contracts or shorter term deliveries, the cost of fuel, lubricating oils, etc. are still much higher despite the current drop in oil prices. And with the current incredibly volatile market conditions, it would be reckless to simply key the fuel supplement only on the price of a barrel of unrefined oil. (There is, of course, another option: Quietly raise cruise prices to cover this fluctuating cost. I am not liking that idea at all and, to be sure, I am certain the cruise lines know that you don't either.)

As Laurel was chided by Hardy (am I dating myself), "Well, Stanley, this is another fine mess you have gotten us into!"

UPDATE:  Carnival Corp. just posted its earnings for the Third Quarter 2008 and they are quite strong.  On the issue of fuel supplements Carnival Corp stated:  Based on current spot prices for fuel of $598 per metric ton, full year 2008 fuel expense is now forecast to increase by $678 million compared to 2007, which will have the effect of reducing full year 2008 earnings by $0.83 per share. The existing fuel supplements in place, if entirely incremental, are expected to offset approximately 25 percent of the $678 million fuel price increase for 2008. With current supplements remaining in place for 2009, and assuming current spot prices stay in place for all of 2009, the company estimates that approximately 43 percent of the cumulative increase in fuel costs since 2007 would be offset.


Simply stated, the fuel supplements have only addressed 25% of the increase in fuel from 2007 and it is projected that if things stay the same they will still only offset 43% of next year's increased fuel costs (still compared to 2007).  It seems that we will be keeping the fuel surcharges for quite a long time.

How Private Is Your Cabin? A New U.S. Court of Appeals Decision

So you board the ship for your cruise, unpack your personal belongings, place your valuable items in the safe and then begin loading up on souvenirs and other purchases as you travel along.  You know security screens your bags (presumably for guns, knives and, at least on some cruise lines, liquor) and that your steward(ess) comes into clean.  But aside from those accepted intrusions are you entitled to keep your cabin "private".

On September 4, 2008, the United States Court of Appeals (the court immediately below the United States Supreme Court) for the Third Circuit ruled you are entitled to that privacy...sort of.  A preface:  in U.S. v. Whitted (http://www.ca3.uscourts.gov/opinarch/063271p.pdf ) the Court found that suprisingly there really aren't many cases involving a person's rights to privacy on cruise ships and, more specifically, private cabins.  But we now have "The Case".

Now, before you all start shouting, "I have my Fourth Amendment rights to privacy and unlawful searches!  You must have a search warrant to enter my cabin!", let me just say:  "Wrong!". The laws of the United States are such that a person has far greater rights to privacy "inside" the country than at its borders.  [How do I get from you are on a ship and I am at the U.S. border:  Say, as here, the ship cruises from St. Maarten to St. Thomas.  St. Thomas is a U.S. territory and, as such, the ship is at the U.S. border.]

At its borders "routine" searches can be done by U.S. government agents without even a suspicion of wrongdoing (ex. Customs...or Department of Homeland Security...inspecting your bags at the cruise terminal or airport) or "non-routine" searches upon "reasonable suspicion".  This is a far lower standard than the infamous "probable cause" standards you have heard of that is necessary for a judge to issue a search warrant.  I will explain...just follow me.

The courts have, however, found that you are entitled to a significantly higher expectation of privacy in your cabin - where you sleep...akin to your home away from home- than you are in the public areas of the ship or even an automobile, essentially because they are living quarters where you asleep rather than areas primarily for socialization or transportation.  Thus, you have a legitimately high expectation of privacy from those other than to whom you give consent to enter (like your stewardess).  This makes any search of your cabin by a U.S. government agent  "non-routine".

After all of that, what is necessary to reach the "reasonable suspicion" standard?  Not much.  All that is necessary is there be a "particularized and objective basis" for that suspicion.  In Whitted the man was a legitimate cruise passenger and did absolutely nothing wrong while onboard the ship.  In fact, when the drug-sniffing dog walked down the ship's hallway he didn't even react when passing Whitted's cabin door! There were not even any reports of him hanging around known drug-dealers (like many of you have seen near the docks in Jamaica).

But he fit a profile of a drug dealer:  (1) He purchased a cruise ticket only shortly before the cruise...in cash; (2) He was previously convicted of drug possession on more than one occasion; (3) He was traveling on a ship that cruised to known drug source countries (and for all of you that didn't know it St. Maaten is a hotbed for such things...as any yachtie...so don't think Jamaica is the only place!); and, (4) Agents in San Juan noted Whitted's behavior seemed suspicious and entered the info into the TECS (Treasury Enforcement Communications System), a computer database.

So with this "reasonable suspicion" the agents and ship's security entered Whitted's cabin, took all of his luggage out from under his bed, pressed all the air out of the closed bags...and then let the dog sniff around.  That is when the dog reacted...to a fake can of shaving cream.  Then the cruise line made it's x-ray machine available and, low and behold, small pebbles were seen inside the shaving cream can.  It then was field tested positive for heroin.

So they caught the "bad guy", but it should be fair warning to everyone that just acting a bit strange may just be enough to create "reasonable suspicion" to have the U.S. government search your cabin while on a cruise when entering U.S. waters. 

Also, remember this relates to what the U.S. government can do; not what the cruise lines can do.  The cruise lines operate under different rules based upon the terms of your cruise contract, the laws of its flag state and The Law of the Seas. In other words, you probably have even less expectations and rights to privacy than those discussed above.  (Remember that broken lamp that was miraculously fixed when you were ashore?  Who gave permission for the crew to enter your cabin and take down the headliner?)

For most of us, it really will never make a difference and we probably don't really care.  But imagine if you come back from your wonderful tour and find all your luggage out and the all the drawers open.  You most definitely would feel your privacy was improperly violated...But was it?

2009 Thanksgiving Weekend Caribbean Cruise on Seabourn - Great Pricing!

I know we are all just starting to get out of "summer" mode, but football has started and Thanksgiving will soon be upon us. 

As you think about the joys of family...and whether the weekend be filled with rain or snow... consider spending the 2009 weekend on a Seabourn cruise.  Enjoy Thanksgiving, hop a a short flight and then be pampered.

I am putting together a group to enjoy a five (5) day cruise on the Seabourn Spirit (fresh out of a two week dry dock - so there will be some brand new improvements and changes to see!) on November 27, 2009 conveniently sailing out of Ft. Lauderdale and ending in St. Thomas, with port calls in Grand Turk and Jost Van Dyke, B.V.I. for a Marina Day and two relaxing days at sea in between.

The best part is that I can offer this to you for under $2,000 per person including all taxes, fees and fuel supplements!  (Of course, with it being a Goldring Travel group, you can expect a few little extras as well.) 

Some of you may remember the fun we had on the short three night cruises around New York.  Those are gone forever, but this is the next best thing...and it will be warm, the views outstanding and a Marina Day in the British Virgin Islands sounds so much better than taking a swim in the Hudson River!

So if you have every thought you could not afford to try Seabourn, or didn't want to make an investment in a Seabourn cruise in Europe or Asia without knowing what Seabourn is all about...or if you just want to spoil yourself for a few days...this is an outstanding opportunity!

And let's not forget it is a wonderful opportunity for the entire family to enjoy the luxury of Seabourn.

How to Handle...And Not Handle...A Hurricane

With hurricane season well and truly upon us (Thanks to Fay, Gustav, Hanna, Ike and...) there are a few things which need to be mentioned; highlighted by the USA Today report about the Mutiny on the Carnival Miracle.

First, any passenger traveling to the Caribbean between August and October must (that is "must") understand that ship happens during hurricane season. If you have saved up for your one and only trip to St. Thomas or you have finally decided to "now or never" swim with the stingrays in Grand Cayman this is not the season to book your cruise to do it. Fly to the destination and do a land-based holiday. You may get wet, but you only have to deal with problems if the hurricane is going to be over the top of you...rather than blocking the ship's path back to port.

Second, be flexible. Even if your itinerary isn't what it was supposed to be remember that First and Foremost, you wanted to be on a cruise. You spent how much time selecting the ship, which cabin, avoiding which airports, etc.? You think (or post) endlessly about your favorite waiters, the "secrets" of enjoying the ship more, how the entertainers are going to be, whether there will be new towel animals and have pre-booked the spas and specialty dining areas. Even if you don't get to go to a port, you have the ship...and that is THE major destination for most Caribbean cruises.

Third, hope and pray the cruise line handles it well. Here I can give you too great recent examples...one Excellent and one, apparently, terrible.

A. Excellent - During my recent cruise on Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas we dodged Fay, but had to deal with Gustav. As a result our 4 port cruise (Labadee, Ocho Rios, Grand Cayman and Cozumel) became only 2 ports (St. Thomas and St. Maarten). Captain Johnny gave a very detailed explanation over the ship's PA system (which was great for those that could not understand his very enthusiastic and upbeat Norwegian accent!). BUT RCCL DID MORE: The Cruise Director and Captain broadcast a detailed explanation over the television system using charts, weather tracking information, travel distances, etc. leaving absolutely no question in any reasonable mind that every option was taken into account (even, "Well we could have sneaked into Labadee and then changed course, but you would have been met with a cold, rainy and windy beach along with rough seas, so we opted for a sea day with sunny skies and smooth seas")...and then they explained it again; confirming the difference in port charges would be added to everyone's onboard account. Yes, there was disappointment for many with less ports and more sea days...and being in St. Thomas again (though there were happy shoppers) and being in St. Maarten with 10,000+ cruise passengers, but most everyone understood. (There were a few out of control passengers, but they were far and very few between). All in all it was handled extremely well by the cruise line and the passengers.

B. Terrible - In today's USA Today online there is a blog about there being a virtual Mutiny on the Carnival Miracle not only because of the change in itinerary caused by Hanna (including a non-Caribbean port call in Newport, Rhode Island...which I personally love), but because of the way the captain has purportedly handled it. USA Today reports that one CruiseCritic poster claims "The attitude of the captain has caused passengers to (go) ballistic" and that the passengers are shouting "Refund! Refund!" while threatening to penalize the innocent crew by reducing their gratuities to "zero". Now, I have been around long enough to know that not every CruiseCritic poster portrays things as accurately as they might and that some have agendas which are not totally honorable, but where there is smoke there is a good chance of fire. Quite possibly an understanding and warm explanation that there as no way to cross Hanna's path safely (which should be obvious) either on the way and/or the way back coupled with an explanation that because of the size of the Miracle, Bermuda was not an option (I am assuming here), Carnival might have avoided the Mutiny.

Alas, there is a reason my motto/business plan is very simple: Be Treated By Your Travel Agent As You Will Be Onboard! I expect to be treated exceptionally well. If I do not believe I will be, I will not board the ship and will not suggest such a ship to my clients. (Ironically, I have 8 clients sailing on the Carnival Miracle tomorrow! I will be able to let you know how Carnival response to Ike with more direct info!)

Personally, no matter how arrogant the captain may be, no matter how bad the ports may be, no matter how disappointed you may be, you are still on a cruise...on the ship of your choosing...and the ship has lots of good things to do. Why ruin the entirety of your cruise while you are on it? Make the best of it and, if ultimately appropriate, complain when you return. BUT REMEMBER, you chose to cruise during hurricane season. (Did you like the discounted price offered on your cruise? You could have taken the same cruise Christmas for lots more money. First ask yourself, "Why was the cruise discounted so much?" and then write your letter.)

Mariner of the Seas Travelogue - The Last Days and A Conclusion: An Interesting Experience

I am now back from my cruise. I am well rested and, while the product really is not for me, fairly impressed with most aspects of my cruise.

I left off with St. Maarten. It was, well and truly, overwhelming to see the Freedom of the Seas, Mariner of the Seas and Carnival Valor on the same dock. Over 10,000 cruise passengers descending upon this tiny island was actually kind of depressing because I knew none of the quainter places could possibly be quaint at all. We decided to stay on board the ship and had a very nice time.

As I looked closer at the Solarium I kept thinking, "If they just reduced the number of lounge chairs by 50% this would be an absolutely incredible space to be enjoyed as a real luxury." And with so many ashore, it was a wonderful place to be. Any luxury ship or hotel would be proud of the space, design, finishes, etc.; and even the lounges were very good. I did find the lack of any real bar service to be a let down. (I had a ritual of getting my wife 2 orange juices from the Windjammer Café because there was no option. Not a huge problem, but with a full bar in the area, but not opened until 2PM, it was a bit disappointing. But with an obvious plan for onboard review, but it not panning out, RCCL obviously has limited the bar's hours.)

We also enjoyed Johnny Rockets with the kids. It is pretty much identical in food and experience as it is on land...but I was able to get out of there paying only for shakes, floats and a beer (not available in land operations!).

I would be remiss not to mention the Ice Show. It was truly a wonderful show with ice skating, aerial acrobatics and good music. It is truly a not to be missed show. (And I am not a fan of cruise ship shows!)

With the last two days at sea, I found myself getting up, taking my book to the Concierge Lounge and reading while I sipped coffee, setting off for a bit in the Solarium then getting out of the sun and relaxing on my balcony...interspersed with some playtime with the kids (who spent a small fortune in the Arcade - conveniently located by the kid's facilities - when they were not involved in the kids programs), a visit to the casino or a walk around the ship. There were no lectures unrelated to selling things available on board.

We decided not to revisit Portofino, but did have a third night at Chops (the last evening), which was again a very nice experience. I must comment however, that while I truly did not like our main dining room waiter (I decided he just has a very sly way about him and his habit of shaking the wine bottle to get the last drop off really bothered me...I guess it was his "thing"), our assistant waiter, Courtney, was a diamond in the rough...and working very hard to do things the right way: poised, quiet, served properly, was friendly but not too much so and always greeted you with a genuine smile. That said, we thought it worth trying the last formal night to see how the lobster was. Surprisingly, for shipboard lobster it was very good! The presentation of the rice and vegetables was not great and we were not offered any seconds...which I saw being brought out to others (I didn't want one, but I felt like our waiter just wanted done with us.)

Final Thoughts:

I will give some ratings based upon the ship and a more mass-market experience. It would not be appropriate to rate things versus, say, Seabourn.

I am absolutely positive that even with the change of itinerary, the vast majority of passengers had a great time. Royal Caribbean delivered the product they promised to deliver...and the many guests who had been on 10+, 50+ and even 100+ (?) cruises with them spoke with true satisfaction. So for the right market, the ship delivers...and being docked next to the 5,000+ passenger Freedom of the Seas elicited great excitement from them not only about it, but the even larger Oasis of the Seas. For them I think the cruise (itinerary change and attendent horrrific lines at the tour desk excluded) would be an A.

For many food is something to be consumed; for some (many?) in great quantity and for others as either as subsistence or a time for socializing. For those wanting high quality food, the options are very limited...though surprisingly (at least for me) Chops had room on every night for additional diners and it is not a large venue. When Johnny Rockets is your best tasting lunch option... Anyway, for me the food was a C- (noting that marginal food served well probably would have tasted better), but for Chops I would give it a B+.

The kids had a great time, after settling in. My 9 year old was able to, for the first time, have some independence as Royal Caribbean very carefully makes sure the ship's public areas are safe. They have some crew in brightly colored safety vests/shirts and others quietly strolling around, but it afforded me the opportunity for my daughter (with a two-way radio always in hand) to venture out on her own or with a new found friend. My 12 year old found the Living Room and a few activities to be fun. While he proudly showed off his medal for coming in second in a Guitar Hero competition ("See Dad, all those hours of playing video games actually paid off!"), he did enjoy being able to come and go with his friends as he pleased. And I really didn't see any truly bad kids (thought, to be accurate, I was trying to avoid the masses!). So for kids I give the ship an A, but for the program (if your kids have been on a few cruises and have a "been there, done that" option) a C. New to cruising kids would probably rate it a B+. (I found the Celebrity programs to be a bit more sophisticated.) Overall cruise experience for the children: B+.

Our Grand Suite was very nice and out attendant was very good; leaving it spotless and never misplacing or accidentally throwing out anything. I do like the option to have quiet instrumental music in the bathroom. (Upgraded toiletries were just as good as Regent's!) The individual rheostat controlled lights by the bed and dimmers on all other lights in the suite were nice too. Our balcony was wide, but a bit too narrow. (This, I observed, was corrected on the Freedom-class ships.) I also found the complete array of glassware excellent, but wondered how it was to be used with the no bringing of alcohol on board policy in place. (BTW, I brought a bottle of Glenfiddich aboard in my luggage with no problem at all.) Frankly, without the Concierge Lounge as a quiet morning retreat with continental breakfast, its Concierge allowing me to avoid the Tour Desk's horrific lines and it complimentary drinks and canapés before dinner, I would have had a much less satisfactory cruise experience. I would rate the suite experience an A-.

One side comment: The staff needs to smile more and recognize the passengers. I know that with 3,735 passengers saying "Hello" and smiling all day and night is a daunting task, but the failure to do so leaves one with the impression that you are more of a bother than a guest. In fact, some times I was just ignored. To be fair, some were very good at acknowledging passengers, but that was most certainly a minority.

It also reminds me that the "software": the staff and crew that make an experience a luxury one. Sitting in the dining room with that wonderful view and the duo playing, I said a number of times, "If just the service and food were better." When entering the Concierge Lounge if I was greeted by, "Good Morning, Mr. Goldring" or "How was your son's parasailing?" I would have felt better. But with 3,700+ passengers every 7 days, to expect so much - and at the price we paid - would, well and truly, be unfair.

We went on a family cruise and the family is happy. It will not be remembered as special and will, to be sure, fade from our memories, but will do so as a non-descript good experience.

Overall, my feeling is that I can still readily recommend Royal Caribbean for the product it is. I cannot, as I can with Celebrity, recommend that a luxury experience can be had with a little knowledge about the ship and its offerings. Royal Caribbean does not market itself that way and, as I said, it delivers what it promises.

Mariner of the Seas - A Hurricane Runs Through It...Almost

We were greeted with the news of Gustav, which is projected to take the same cruise we had scheduled: Haiti, Jamaica, Grand Cayman and Cozumel, we made a hard left (East) and are visiting St. Thomas and St. Maarten. This gives us 2 extra sea days and 2 ports I really have no great desire to visit.

One big plus to having a suite is that you do not need to need to stand in the tour desk line...or the line for ice show tickets. I must say I feel really bad for the people that stood in line for half a day to arrange tours only for the itinerary to be changed and them all having to stand in line for another half a day changing them again. Yesterday the line literally ran down 75% of the Promenade. That was much worse than the line of 100+ waiting for ice show tickets. I, on the other hand, just walked to the Concierge Lounge and the tours (parasailing) and ice show tickets were done instantly; albeit I did have to wait for one person.

The Concierge Lounge is also a nice place for a quiet drink before dinner. Nothing fancy, but definitely acceptable.

We have dined in Chops, the extra cost alternative steak restaurant ($25 per person) and have had two good to very good meals with very good service (better than Regent). Looking forward to a nice meal and a decent wine list (yes, it's true!) has made things a bit better. The grilled Portobella mushroom and asparagus spears was so good I had it both nights. My wife's tuna Carpaccio was OK and her lobster bisque was actually quite good. My veal chop was very good and my T-Bone was OK (far better than the main restaurant). My wife's filet mignon was very good as was her lamb. The ala carte side dishes were OK, but the huge baked potatoes are worthy of note. I cannot figure out why most people do not try this venue for at least one night. (Last night I tried Portofino and will let you know below if this second alternative restaurant also succeeds.)

Yesterday, while everyone was off the boat in St. Thomas I took some time to check out the ship sans the crowds.

- The Windjammer is actually a very pleasant space. The food, however, reminds me of the college cafeteria. I sampled a bit from here and a bit from there and most was just not that good; some awful. They do prepare vegetables nicely.

- The Solarium (the adults only pool and lounge area) is actually pretty darn nice. A lot of thought went into this space with comfortable lounges (fitted cushions over the standard pool lounges), nicely tiled mosaic flooring, numerous classy artistic touches and shelter from the wind. Any luxury line's guests would be pleased with this space. What a difference from a sea day with it overflowing with people, saved lounges, no room in the spas or pool, etc.

- The Main Pool is also a really nicely designed and attractive space...if you can get past the thousand plus lounge chairs.

- The Promenade is also very attractive if you look into the pub or wine bar and see it without the throngs of people.

And that is, for me, the problem. It is not signing for this or that (never bothered me). And most of the prices actually seem quite reasonable...save the bottled water. It is the people and the noise. Oh, that noise. It is exhausting. So I am avoiding it. My suite and balcony is great. The Concierge Lounge is nice. The Connoisseur's Club for a cigar and a whiskey is also nice (but could use better air cleaners). The alternative restaurants are also good. So there are places to make this ship OK.

But I will paint a picture from two nights ago that pretty much sums it up. After a nap on my balcony, we had drinks in the Concierge Lounge and then went to Chops for a nice meal. We then wandered over to the Connoisseur's Club and decided to call it a night. AND THEN IT WAS DISCO NIGHT IN THE PROMENADE. Bam, it hit me in the face. My lovely evening was ended by the reality of where I was. (But to be fair, there were hundreds of people that absolutely had a blast and the love the crowds and noise.)

Last night was interesting on a number of levels.

First, I have come to the conclusion that the Kid's Program is designed to work with the least common denominator and, therefore, loses the interest of most of the children. At first I thought it was my 12 year old being, well, 12 years old. But he has consistently told me that the programs are not of interest and, to be honest, they don't sound very interesting to me. (They probably were good 3-5 years ago, but times they are a changin'.) My 9 year old says she is treated as a child and the activities are "for babies". and, when looking at them, they pretty much all seem like "high energy, low thought" games. So many children simply opt out of the programs...and I actually have more work making sure my 9 year old is OK and entertained than when I am cruising on, for example, Regent or Celebrity. And I thought the kids would LOVE this cruise. It is was a main motivator for our being here in the first place. I guess rock climbing, miniature golf, etc. only goes so far with today's sophisticated children.

Second, the food thing really wears you down. Last night in Portofino we had an OK meal. Every word was scripted and the food had about the same amount of imagination. "My name is X and although I am from the Philippines, I will do my best to be your Italian waiter this evening." His assistant kept calling my wife "My Lady" and me "Senor". Huh??? My smoked duck salad was good, and the cold tomato soup was fine (not great), but the main course...the recommended pasta with seafood had no flavor other than crushed red peppers (a classic cover for no taste items) and frozen seafood. Even the recommended dessert sampler was just OK. Two of the four dishes were tasteless with one literally overwhelmed by the use of too much cornstarch, but the other two were actually quite good (tiramisu and a flourless chocolate cake). BUT the thing that really got me was the infamous pitch (not yet heard on this ship) about making sure we give great marks when we rate everything. We canceled our second seating in Portofino and have added a third at Chops. Tonight is our second venture into the main dining room.

Third, after our post-dinner drink my wife wanted to check out the party on the pool deck. I went back to the Suite. She wasn't 10 minutes behind me. Over 1,000 having a very loud, and very happy, time was just not something she could deal with. I came up with the idea of going to Ellington's in the Viking Crown Lounge on Deck 14 (yes...and there is one deck higher!) where we could observe the party from up high and through glass windows, shielded from the noise and crowds. It was actually very nice to observe...like Times Square on New Year's Eve. This leads me to conclude that my perspectives are, in fact, not actually fair. Royal Caribbean does an excellent job at delivering what it is supposed to be delivering. I don't eat at TGI Fridays; I don't go to dance clubs; and, although I am in far better "shape" to do it, I haven't done a belly flop in years.

Even with the itinerary change I do not see many sad faces, the food is being eaten, the parties are packed...and the ship is spotless, my suite remains pristine (and two burned out bulbs were changed immediately), and I am fairly relaxed about it all.

Today, we are in St. Maarten along with the Freedom of the Seas (5,000+ passengers) and the Carnival Valor. With over 10,000 people descending on this little island, believe it or not, Mariner of the Seas is our Oasis. (What a good name for a Royal Caribbean ship! OMG, RCCL has sucked me in!) But I do have the harsh reality of then having two days at sea having to share this very interesting ship with all those other people.

Mariner of the Seas - My First 24 Hours

It has been a very interesting 24 hours aboard Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas. With approximately 3,735 passengers onboard, with quite a mix of ages, ethnicities, languages and socioeconomic classes, there is much that I have observed and some that just disappoints. Overall though, it has been more tolerable than I expected, though not my idea of a perfect cruise.

We arrived yesterday around 11:30 am and had a very painless check-in and were heading up the gangway in about 15 minutes. Our Grand Suite wouldn't be ready until 1:00 pm and we were not permitted to drop off our carry-on luggage so we started a brief tour of the ship a bit bogged down.

First stop was the spa, so the sea day massages could be booked at the desired times. There was no hard sell. I briefly inspected the complimentary steam room and sauna and other facilities and they were quite nice and sparkling clean. We then stopped by Johnny Rockets, the pool (with a scary number of lounge chairs), the rock climbing wall and miniature golf. The kids purchased their soda cards ($25 +15% gratuity) so they can have all the soda they want without the constant single charges.

It was time to eat, so we ventured into the Windjammer Café and had an OK meal from the buffet. (I do not remember ever seeing a hamburger that looked like what they were serving, but it was OK.) The seating was nicer than expected in faux rattan chairs, but the ambiance is not something I enjoyed with literally over 1,000 people walking past.

It was now time to see our suite. I was, and remain, pleasantly surprised by it. It is larger than the suites on Seabourn or Regent Seven Seas or Cunard, with a very comfortable full size sofa bed, queen bed, two comfortable chairs (plus one by the vanity desk), a nice bar, plenty of closet and drawer space and a very nice, large, marble bathroom with double sinks under a granite top and a full bathtub/shower. The balcony is large enough for two lounges, two chairs and a table. While it comes with only one lounge, a request of our cabin steward and a second lounge appeared. TV with DVD and an excellent sound system is also included. The bed was extremely comfortable and the linens crisp and comfortable. It was spotless and smelled clean and fresh. This is becoming my refuge. 

Suites also have the use of the Concierge Club with complimentary drinks and snacks before dinner, as well as a fairly nice continental breakfast. More importantly, the concierge takes care of ice show tickets, tours, etc., avoiding literally hour long lines. It is a bit of a refuge and relief as well.

When I reappeared from my suite a terrible thing happened: Thousands of more people appeared. It turned the Promenade from a curiosity with a couple of possible places to have a glass of wine, to an echoing and loud mall/hall with tables being set up for the sale of cheap jewelry and liquor.

After a rousing game of miniature golf with the kids, I checked out my table for dinner. Incredibly we had been placed in probably the worst table in the restaurant, stuck in a back room next to a service door on the lowest of the three levels...with no view of anything. Shocking for a suite guest to be placed there. Equally amazing there was available an excellent table on the third (top) level right by the railing overlooking the entire restaurant and just above the pianist and violinist...transforming the massive space into what was admittedly a pretty elegant and quaint one.

With the kids enjoying room service (with a limited, but acceptable, menu) and planning out their evening, we had a drink in our suite and then we all ventured out to the show, which was very entertaining with a comic and a juggler (http://jeffthejuggler.com/). Then dinner.

This is where "my" cruise really falls apart. Our waiter is OK, but I cannot tell if he is genuinely friendly or if I should be looking for my wallet at the end of the meal. The service was polite, if not a bit rough around the edges. It was as if I was being rushed to complete my meal after waiting to place my order. The waiter served my wine - which I appreciated - as I saw the next table waiting a painfully long time for the sommelier. My first course was a Hot and Sour Shrimp soup which was hot and sour, but the broth had little other flavors and the shrimp had that watered down taste and mushy consistency of thawed shrimp that had been dumped from the tub with the defrosted water into the soup at the last minute. My wife's onion and cheese tart was OK, but with no style and curiously covered with red peppers. Salads were basic. Her sirloin steak was marginal at best (small, thin and tasteless) and was accompanied by a scoop of mash potatoes (you could see the scoop marks) and some diced vegetables. I went with the end cut prime rib and baked potato. The meat was dry, but it had a bit of flavor. It was, alas, food and nothing more. (Tonight we are trying Chops.)

We ended our evening in the Connoisseur's Club, the cigar and whisky lounge. It is a very nice venue, but curiously had a big screen TV which dampens the ambiance; though it remains one of the quietest places on the ship...which is hopping everywhere else! It is very sparingly used (maybe 3 couples at a time), but it does need better ventilation.

After a very restful night's sleep our breakfast arrived. The order had most of what we ordered, much we did not. It had tasteless powdered eggs and paste-like potatoes with dry, tasteless pastries. The coffee was actually quite acceptable as was the bacon. The rest was pretty much inedible, so cereal and fruits may be the only way to go.

I won't bore you with our morning activities, but the pool was pretty much filled and, as such, the whirlpool tubs were overwhelmed with kids. The Promenade was filled with announcements for raffles, etc. I like my suite.

We tried lunch in the Dining Room. The service was even more rough and let's just say that I will not be eating any more shrimp on this ship. I actually think the buffet might be a better option...if you can deal with all the people.

That's it for my first 24 hours.

Mariner of the Seas Travelogue - Prologue

I promise I will not bore you with the minutia of taxi rides and pre-cruise meals in this travelogue, but rather will try to give some perspective from a travel agent's and a parent's points of view as I venture back into the world known as mass market cruising.  On Sunday I will be boarding Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas settling in a Grand Suite on a sold out Caribbean cruise as Tropical Storm Fay just departs.

As my family is rather jaded from all of the cruises they have taken - and where they have traveled -  it took until last night for them to show any real interest in the cruise.  My wife asked about the specialty restaurants, forgetting our discussing same weeks ago when I pre-reserved two nights each in Chops (steaks and fish) and Portofino (Italian).  My kids, after first stating they were not that excited because we wouldn't be getting off the ship much (2 sea days and Jamaica), realized that for the first time in a couple of years they would have a "real" kid's club...and now that they are getting older, some real independence.

As for myself, I am trying to look at my cruise on this behemoth much differently from any of my prior cruises...as I remember my ship inspection of the Explorer of the Seas thinking negatively: "Shopping Mall".  (My kids, of course, hear my complaint and shout with glee, "Cool!")

My last Royal Caribbean cruise was in 2001 in an owner's suite on the Nordic Empress (then Empress of the Seas and now gone from the fleet as too small and unique).  I do admit that once I got over all the blue-green glass and brass I found the crew very enthusiastic and I did have a good time (though the food was marginal).  I will not, however, forget my tablemates:  a very nice couple albeit he happened to be a cook at a youth jail somewhere in Pennsylvania.  Ya' never know!

I will be taking some time on this trip to work on some plans for two of my next ones:  The Seabourn Spirit on September 27, 2008 (Athens to Istanbul) and my son's Bar Mitzvah Safari in August 2009.  I am sure that somehow some comparisons...and hopefully some good ideas...will be generated while on this cruise.

So after a few days in Florida visiting my mother, and the Kennedy Space Center for lunch with an astronaut...and, of course, rain predicted for every day!...we will board and I will let you know.

An Interesting Trend - More Last Minute and Higher Quality Cruises. Why?

I have seen over the past couple of weeks - the usual time for the summer doldrums -  a very interesting trend:  People are tending to book cruises for the latter part of this year and on longer itineraries and in higher categories.

While the trend of cruise lines offering lower fares closer in seems to be reemerging...apparently as a result of the softening economy (possibly both in the U.S. and Europe), I am finding my clients, rather than booking their initially selected category, are using their travel budget to improve their cabins/suites and/or length of their cruise, rather than to pocket the funds for other purposes.  This is an interesting trend that would seem, at first, counterintuitive.  I think, however, it actually makes a lot of sense and may actually be a sign of something other than doomsday approaching.

Going to basic economics, one must first look at the mortgage meltdown.  Most of the mortgages that are being foreclosed upon were for people that could not actually afford their homes or were living off of equity they really didn't have...tapping the last 20% of the home's worth.  Those souls may have gone on a cruise or two, but probably were not a major force in the cruise market.  But the impact was more than the chilling effect on those who had a responsible adjustable rate mortgage rather than a 1% interest that adjusted.  A larger impact was on the top end...the investors...that ran up the value of these mortgages in the financial markets; but those also represent a very small portion of those that cruise. 

The real impact for the cruise industry was on those how just had the stuffing scared out of them:  The vast majority of the population. 

But then there was more scary stuff:  When the mortgage securities market began failing, those same investors had to put there money somewhere...and it was oil.  Without getting into politics, the same mortgage speculators became oil speculators...and the media ran with various politicians and politically active financial "talking heads" claiming it was all demand. 

While we can thank them for the now probably permanent "fuel supplements" on our cruises and the havoc they have caused in the airline industry, their irrational cries that a leaking pipe in Nigeria a legitimate reason for a $5 a barrel rise in oil (when such a thing never had any effect in the past) because demand was so huge was just accepted.  How that .001% change in supply was a supposed two-headed monster always baffled me.  [Compare:  Russia invades Georgia under the cover of the Olympics, three oil supply lines were shutdown as a precaution, there are ominous "Cold War" trends appearing...and oil prices are dropping like a rock.  Hummm?????]

But two things have happened:  The European economies started to soften - causing the dollar to increase in value - and Congress said, "We want to stop oil speculators"...despite others steadfastly claiming it was merely demand.

Well, those mortgage securities investors...I'm sorry, I meant oil specutors...decided they didn't want the same regulatory prosecutions happening to them as a result of their oil activities and they began dumping their oil futures contracts.  (One amazing thing is that I heard today that home heating oil may actually be less expensive this winter than last!)

With oil now at less than $111 a barrel, down from a $150+ high, and it being done in just a few short weeks, I think people are starting to breath.

And with the cruise lines suffering from lower (not "low" by any means) demand both in the U.S. and Europe, there is more inventory to sell closer in.  Combine that with the prospects for lower gas and heating oil prices, a bit of stabilization in the stock market in most sectors (if not banking!) coupled with most people having actually cut back spending in anticipation of the worst...but still committed to taking a vacation, and there you have it.

So, if you are one that is now "taking a breath", seeing it isn't going to cost you $100 to fill up your car, and realizing that your mortgage isn't going to automatically explode, take a look at some of the incredible offers being given by the cruise lines.  Remember many people have to plan their vacations quite a few months in advance.  They are already committed, so the close in inventory is their for you to grab...and enjoy.

But, possibly, say to yourself:  That oceanview is $1,000 less than it said in the brochure, why not upgrade to a balcony?  Or from a balcony to a suite...though suite sales have remained strong all along, so there are not as many of those opportunities. Or rather than taking a 7 day Caribbean cruise, how about a Panama Canal cruise?  Or back-to-back a Mediterranean cruise?

So whether you want to board "My Yacht", "Get Out There", "Be Treated Famously" or whatever, now is a great time to consider an autumn cruise.

Ship's Tours, Private Tours or Doing It On Your Own

I am frequently asked if the generic question of I would recommend taking a ship's tour. My answer invariably is, "It depends." And it depends on a number of factors.

The first thing I look at is whether there is anything unique about the tour. In October I am taking a Seabourn tour in Kusadasi which has two parts. The first part is a tour of Ephesus while the second part is a tour of a small village with a cooking class. If it was just the first part I would say, "Don't bother. Take a taxi to Ephesus and pick up a private guide at the entrance. You will have less people, more information and you can do it at your pace." Walking tours of Halifax, a visit to the New England Aquarium, the beach in Mykonos or lunch in Marseille you can do on your own in more comfort and at your own pace. But a cooking class for a limited number of people in a small town in Turkey. Even if you could privately arrange it, the time, logistics and hassle alone...no less even knowing where to start with such an event....makes the ship's tour an almost ideal solution. Others: a visit to a specific private chateau in Bordeaux; an early morning boat ride up close to glaciers; tours tied into onboard educational courses, etc.

The second thing I look at are the logistics of getting there, doing it and getting back to the ship. In August I am going on a Royal Caribbean cruise (Mariner of the Seas) and will be stopping in Cozumel. We will be taking the ship's tour of the Mayan ruins at Tulum. In order to take this tour you must take a ferry (more like a rocky boat) to the mainland, then a bus to Tulum and eventually the ferry back to the ship. While I could arrange a private tour and I do not relish sharing this experience with potentially hundreds of my fellow passengers, I relish less the thought of missing the ferry or it being delayed and the ship sailing without me. This particular tour is cancelled from time to time because of rough seas and the ferry is delayed at times for the same reason. When you are on a ship's tour you are protected from the possibility of the ship leaving without you. Doing it on your own is doing it at your own risk. I recall quite a few passengers left in Civitavecchia when there was a snap strike on the trains from Rome. The ship left them behind, without their passports, and the next port was in France. Independence is a wonderful thing...but I caution it should be exercised with caution.

The third thing I look at is whether there is a private tour option. There are many times when there is a private tour that is better than the ship's tour and it is (especially when paying for 2 or more people) less expensive. An example is a tour of Athens. In October I am providing those on my Seabourn Spirit Food & Wine Cruise a complimentary tour of Athens and Cape Sounion. Our guide will meet us at 7:30 am so that we beat the crowds and the afternoon heat. After providing us with a beautiful overview and explanation of the Acropolis from a nearby park we will arrive just as the Acropolis opens...before the crowds are even getting on their buses...and will be able to enjoy the site for quite a while ourselves. Then passing the masses as they arrive, we will head off to some of the other sites followed by a wonderful visit to the Temple of Poseidon followed by a waterside lunch in a nice taverna with a real menu. Doesn't that sound much better than climbing in a bus, standing on your toes to get a glimpse, shouting "Can you speak up. I can't hear you." and then waiting while "that person" just needs to make one more purchase?

The fourth thing I look at is price and value. There is a difference between the two. Sometimes you know you are being overcharged, but if you want the experience enough it remains of value. As I mentioned, sometimes a private tour is a far better value than a ship's tour, but then there are tours that you can only obtain through the ship. One example above is the cooking class in Turkey. Another might be a zipline in the Caribbean. Is that one hour tour - and 10 minutes of excitement - worth $80.00? For me there is no way I would spend that kind of money, but others would find the experience something to think back on and talk about for years.

We were in Tahiti last year on the Regent Seven Seas Paul Gauguin and took the Swim with the Stingrays tour as part of Regent/Jean Michel Cousteau's incredible and unique Ambassadors of the Environment program. Well, we thought this might be a bit better than Captain Marvin's private tour in Grand Cayman and was it ever. It turned into my family's first experience swimming with sharks (black-tipped reef sharks) and the beginning of their appreciation of sharks and a willingness to venture a bit out of their comfort zones to experience nature. Incredible value.

I have an incredible private guide that I use in Florence. She makes the city and the art and architecture come alive...and she is charming. Want to miss most of the lines in Italy? Use a private guide. Want a real explanation of what you are seeing? Use a private guide. Are they a bit expensive? A bit (but not so much for a family of four), but oh is there value.

I also look to see if an independent option is available. Taking a walk to the fish market in Marseille followed by a wonderful bouillabaisse lunch does not need a ship's or private tour nor does a walk around Charleston, South Carolina with a buggy ride and some good ol' southern cooking. Halifax is a great place to wander and they even offer recorded walking tour rentals on the pier for only a few dollars. Le Lavendou, France has a wonderful local market where you can get lost for a couple of hours followed by a lunch seaside. Barcelona is one of the great walking cities where shops, markets food, culture, architecture, etc. come at you from all sides, but in a fun and not overwhelming way.

Theory is one thing, but reality is another.To be sure, independence is good for some and not so good for others. For many travelers the concept of not having to worry or having it all planned out is one of the very reasons they go on cruises. For that sort of traveler I would caution against striking out on your own. You can most certainly enjoy these cities and have the comfort of a tour, ship or private.

So when asking, "Should I take a ship's tour?" you should first ask what it is that you want to do, where you want to do it and might I be better off doing a private or independent tour. Only then will you be able to truly access the benefits and/or pitfalls of a ship's tour.

On It's Way...Finally

The Clipper Pacific finally set sail from Tampa, Florida late on July 29th after completing numerous repairs. In addition to the failed steel plating being replaced, numerous other safety violations were addressed. The reports are that the crew was cooperative and they attended to many of the violations that were not required to be completed in order to have the vessel cleared to depart.

Hopefully with the crew now aware of what is required for there to be a safe ship (and for their safety) the progress made in assuring the former Song of Norway's passengers sail safely for years to come.

Clipper Pacific Update - Still in Tampa and The News Is Not Great

I wanted to give those of you interested an update on the Clipper Pacific...and it is not really very good news.

She remains in Tampa and, according to a U.S. Coast Guard release late yesterday there is work being done to replace a 5 foot by 6 foot plate of steel along with some internal structure (beams and related metal).

What is also disturbing is that the passengers are not permitted to remain on board because there is no approved Emergency Evacuation Plan.

You may recall that I immediately commented that a patch was not going to be acceptable and that the plate would most probably have to be replaced. That is exactly what is being done. So hopefully I have kept Iamboatman's reputation intact.

I must, however, pause and ask a question. "For all the passengers who are spending their time and money (along with the operator's money) vacationing in Tampa, how many have taken the time to think about who is running the ship, how they could have allowed them to have their lives risked with such deplorable conditions, and how come they remain willing to cross the Pacific Ocean with those very same people in charge?"

Far more money is being spent keeping the passengers in Tampa than the cost of flying them back home. Is the need to complete the journey, or getting one's money's worth, sufficiently strong that people are willing to risk their safety and possibly their lives? I cannot fathom how this question should even need to be asked.

A caveat: The United States Coast Guard is not going to let a truly unsafe vessel depart Tampa, so to be fair to the ship, when she is ready to leave she will be at least minimally seaworthy from the Coast Guard's perspective. And, yes, the captain and crew will have the necessary licenses attesting to their technical competence. But are they actually competent? The facts here tend to strongly infer not.

There is far more to competency than a piece of paper. This is a major area of concern and conflict in the superyacht industry and, I assume, in the shipping industry as well. The days of "putting in sea time" are fading away as technocrats sitting behind desks create regulations that try to equate passing exams with seaworthiness. But that is another topic for another day.

In th meantime I will continue to shed a tear as I fondly remember sipping a Tequila Sunrise on the deck of the Song of Norway thinking how great was to be on a cruise.

Seabourn Odyssey - The Details.

So what is this new Seabourn Odyssey all about?

First, let me state the obvious...which might not be that obvious to those who have not cruised on Seabourn. The new ship is about service. Consistent service. The service you expect.

Carnival, Princess and Royal Caribbean have far more toys and venues than the Odyssey, but you would never cruise on them expecting the same level of cruise experience. So when thinking about the new ship, don't think you need to go WOW! about anything. (OK, the Spa is a WOW!) Think about how the venue, its setup, its atmosphere blends, embellishes, or compliments Seabourn Service.

I will keep away from most statistics because they are to most just boring or, worse, confusing.

SEABOURN SQUARE

Every hate the feeling of having a barrier between you and the purser, when you want to discuss something? Dread lining up to talk about a tour or to book your next cruise? Well Seabourn is implementing something pretty cool (actually somewhat more akin to what private banking used to be like). You will be able to sit in comfortable chairs in a lounge atmosphere and deal with your requests, inquiries and needs in a most civilized manner. And what would make your feel a bit more comfortable? A coffee bar will be located in the same area....and just down the corridor from the Card Room.

DINING:

Main Dining Room - Seabourn has done something pretty unique. It has very shrewdly designed the Restaurant to be essentially two mirror-images of the triplet's dining room (as far as layout in the dining room and galley). Even the waiter stations are in the same locations. Why you might ask? So that any staff that comes from one of the triplets knows exactly where to go, were things are, and how to serve. While the room will be beautiful, the service will be - here's that word - consistent.

Restaurant 2 - Again consistent with the Pride, Spirit and Legend, this alternative restaurant will feature innovative menus with wine parings.

The Colonnade - This is an indoor/outdoor restaurant with an open kitchen serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. It will feature a different theme each evening. Sound familiar? How about both indoor and outdoor seating?

Patio Grill - This is not just any poolside grill. There will be nice touches that make it a bit special at various times of the day. Wander by with a cup of coffee in the morning and you will be greeted with the aroma of warm cinnamon buns.

In Suite - Seabourn does this the best of any cruise line. Your meal will be served course by course, timed as you like it, with the Main Restaurant's menu available. If you simply want a late night pizza or an afternoon snack, there will be an extensive menu available.

SPA

Seabourn will have a unique, two story, indoor and outdoor spa with expanded services. But what is really exciting is that there will be 750 sq. ft. Spa Villas which provide you a private indoor area with seating and dining areas, a double bed lounger, two treatment beds, an oversized bathtub and shower...plus a private outdoor wraparound terrace with sun loungers. You will be able to rent these villas for your private treatment sessions for half or, demand permitting, full days.

In addition to Finnish saunas and aromatic steam rooms, there will be seven private treatment rooms with a much broader spectrum of services than is available on the triplets including a full service salon.

Seabourn will also be providing a state of the art gym for cardio, strength and weight training along with a Kinesis Wall. (For those of you that don't know what that is, don't worry about it - you will never use it!)

And for those wanting to just relax, the indoor pool will be located on Deck 8 and the Spa's own outdoor whirlpool will be located on Deck 9.

POOLS

If the triplets have glaring weakness it is the pool's location and layout. No more. On the Odyssey the outdoor pool is centrally located on Deck 8 with two whirlpools adjacent thereto. Modern, upgraded, lounges will be provided as well.

There will be a second smaller outdoor pool with two more whirlpools aft on Deck 5, as well, providing a quiet place to relax.

Wait until you see the water effects.

MARINA

Seabourn will have its very popular marina installed on the Odyssey and the offerings will be expanded to include water skiing and windsurfing in addition to snorkeling, banana rides, etc.

LOUNGES

One of the interesting things is that the lounges are designed to keep the intimate settings that exist on the triplets. Yes, The Club and the Observation Lounge will be larger, but their layouts are such that they are broken up into smaller spaces. Seabourn has not forgotten that it is the socialization among its guests that is one of its strongest features and these spaces are designed to enhance conversation.

Also, while the Sky Bar will be present in its familiar location and with a now fairly consistent look (thanks to the recent upgrades to the triplets!), there will be a second outdoor bar one deck down...right by the main pool.

STAFF

I have kept the best for last.

Seabourn is doing an incredible amount of work to make sure the staff on the Odyssey is trained, knowledgeable and, of course, familiar. Continuing with the tradition of European and South African staff, Seabourn has put in place an extensive shoreside education and training program.

But as you know, there is nothing like actual experience, so Seabourn is doing something unheard of. It is sacrificing suites on the triplets to house some staff so that they can shadow the current staff and learn "on the job" while not compromising either your upcoming cruise on the triplets or having you face an untrained staff member on the Odyssey. While I am sure it will not be perfect, the effort to make the service as consistent as possible from stewardesses to bartenders, pursers to waitstaff, is remarkable.

If you have questions or would like more information on any particular aspect of the Odyssey, leave a comment or drop me an email. Better yet, give me a call!

Clipper Pacific Is An Old Friend - My Introduction to Cruising

I was reading Cruise News Daily (a favorite of mine) this evening and discovered that the Clipper Pacific is the old Royal Caribbean Song of Norway. She is the first cruise ship I was ever on.

An old girlfriend of mine, Kelly S., worked for a design firm in Coconut Grove, Florida (while I was doing my law clerking thing) and they were awarded the contract to, among other things, design the Viking Crown Lounge and casino on the Song of America. Well, never having been on a cruise ship Royal Caribbean thought it best that they sent Kelly to better understand what it was all about and how it all worked. I, of course, being the supportive boyfriend (and a broke, struggling law student eyeballing a free vacation!) was there for her.

We had a blast sailing out of Miami to Ocho Rios, Jamaica, Cozumel, Mexico and Grand Cayman. (Side note: This summer I am taking a Royal Caribbean cruise to...you guessed it...the same ports. Too weird!) We met a great couple from Alaska who were on their honeymoon. I will never forget that cruise...or attending the christening of the Song of America.

So I wish the Clipper Pacific well...and hope that they take better care of "my" ship.