Conde Nast Traveler Awards - If You Didn't Believe They Were A Joke Before, You Will Now!

For years I have noted, complained and even ranted that the Conde Naste awards were worthless "awards" which were nothing more than the result of the explicit stuffing of the ballot boxes with the knowing consent of Conde Nast Traveler Magazine. This year it makes the elections in Iran and Afghanistan seem legitimate.

The results for the for Best Small Ship Cruise Line:

1. Sea Cloud 2. Yachts of Seabourn 3. Regent Seven Seas

I pause and ask, "How many of you have even heard of Sea Cloud?" and then I ask, "How many of you know that this very small line has two sailing ships and two river boats?" I am not saying Sea Cloud is not a good product, but if the votes are from those that have actually sailed on the line, one must wonder...seriously wonder. Each ship carries no more than 64 passengers.

So, I must ask, "Who voted and how many times?"

But then I got to wondering, "Where the heck is SeaDream Yacht Club?" "Where is Silversea?"

And then I pondered, "How does Regent Seven Seas qualify as a 'Small Ship Cruise Line'?"

I could go on...but why should the facts get in the way of a sham. What a shame. Heck, aren't the three best hotels in Hawaii all Four Seasons?????????????????

Regent Seven Seas Dress Code Downgrade - Relying on Cruise Critic: A Mere Ploy. But What Is the Value Of It All?

When Regent Seven Seas Cruises posted a poll on Cruise Critic seeking out preferences as to dress code I smirked.  I "knew" the decision has already been made to go casual.  That poll was, to be sure, more like a lawyer looking for support for a position than a scientist looking for data.  And, alas, any good lawyer knows to never ask a question if you don't already know the answer.

Let me explain:  Cruise Critic may be the largest community for cruisers in the world, but it represents far less than one (1%) of the cruising population.  Just take a look at the poll itself.  As of today there were only 443 votes...less than the number of guests found on the Voyager or Mariner at any time (even including if occupancy is little more then half full)...and about what you might find on the Navigator.  So there can be 1,850+ guests (plus 3rd and 4ths) on three ships at any time. Then consider that the poll was conducted and the decision decided in little over a month; so figure conservatively 3 voyages x 1,850 guests = 5,550 guests stays in the month.  The poll represents less than 1% of the sailing guests over that brief period.

But it is actually less relevant than that.  Why?  First, because there is no way to know that everyone that voted has (a) actually sailed on Regent; and, (b) actually has any intention of sailing on Regent in the relevant future.  And I am sure there are those with multiple sign-ins.

Of course the biggest reason to question the 66% in favor of a "causal only" dress code is because the demographics of who even knows about Cruise Critic vs. those that only lurk vs. those that actually post vs. those that actually cruise on Regent essentially renders the statistical validity of the query worthless.  (Of course it also seeks to justify offending 34% of the CC voters who want formal nights...and in this market offending such a large population is generally avoided at all costs.)

And then, of course, is the announcement on Cruise Critic by Mark Conroy, President of Regent.  He states, in part, "Most importantly, the recent poll on Cruise Critic showed that the majority of current guests and those that are considering sailing with us support a slightly less formal dress code – two thirds of those who voted are in favor of an Elegant Casual evening dress code."  Wait a minute, 293 people voting on Cruise Critic are the "most important" factor in making the decision.  Sorry, I am not drinking that Kool-aid.

By now you must be wondering, why all the statistical mumbo-jumbo.  Because the "justification" comments are just silly.  If Regent really wanted to know what its guests thought, they already knew what to do:  Have some focus groups onboard and in local events (like they did when designing the now abandoned new ship) or have a brief telephone poll.

Please understand that I am not protesting the Regent decision.  I think it is part of a plan that is long over due...and, for what it is worth, I support it.  I think Regent is quickly becoming an inclusive Oceania-type product and that result will be many more happy guests, less frustrations for management and guests, and a much easier time marketing an actually achievable product to an audience that is very receptive to "free" being a better thing than "value".

While there are less and less people that compare Seabourn and Regent (due to the change in product), a July 10, 2010 11 night cruise on the 700 passenger Mariner departing from Rome starts at $8,060 per person (or $732 per day) per person.  A July 3, 2010 14 night cruise on the 200 guest Seabourn Legend departing from Rome in a French balcony suite starts at $8,549 (or $610 per day) per person. So for the 11 days a guest is paying $1,342 more for the Regent cruise (11 days x $122 per day higher rate).  Right now the airfare for those cruises, booked privately, is under $1,000.  Throw in a couple of "free" tours and you are essentially paying the same price for the Regent cruise as you are the Seabourn cruise.

Remember, though, on Seabourn you are on small ship with higher level of personalized service, a finer level of cuisine, a more refined cruise experience (of course, with formal nights), no lines and access to smaller ports and/or locations in town rather than being bussed to it.

Now does that mean that you should book Seabourn over Regent?  No!  It means that you now have two decidedly different products to choose from. Just don't think because Regent says things are "Free, Free, Free, Free" there is actually any "value" in excess of what, for example, Seabourn offers.

As a travel agent I am thrilled that there is now a defined difference.  I feel far more comfortable selling Regent because it is making it known what it really is all about.  Please, though, do us all one last favor (and I promise I won't ask for much more):  Try to just be straight with us.  Say, "Regent has decided to modify its product (and target market)...and don't do silly things like say 293 Cruise Critic posters (whether they have ever sailed on Regent or not) decided it.

Now, there are "values" out there.  Folks, now is a great time to relearn the differences between the cruise lines,  decide which flavor you prefer and book!

Costa Atlantica - Thoughts After a Ship Inspection and Why Itineraries Can Matter

I preface this post by noting that Costa makes no claim that it is a luxury cruise line.  In fact, Costa makes no claim that it is a "North American" cruise line.  Rather it is, by history and design, a European cruise line...whatever that means. (For example, all Costa ships use the Euro as onboard currency except when cruising the Caribbean, where the dollar rules.  And North Americans will be in a significant minority on any Costa cruise....which can be a very interesting and enjoyable thing.)

The 2,000+ passenger Costa Atlantica has been in New York for a few days and I took the opportunity to, for the first time, set foot on a Costa ship.  This nine year old vessel is fairly well maintained, but to me it just had the feel of visiting someone's grandmother's house:  Dated styling, a bit darker, a little worn and just a bit uncomfortable.  However, I quickly note that there are many people that like that sort of stuff.  Just not me and no when I am cruising.  (Compare, for example, the Seabourn triplets - which are much older.  They have a more modern, brighter, style.)

Little touches like sparing use of Euro-style cocktail napkins (about 30% of the size and half the quality of the American type),  plastic coffee mugs and dishes in the buffet (like child-type plastic; not melamine), spartan cabin amenities, etc. are either of no moment or, for me, things that would grate on me as my cruise went on.

The main dining room was ordinary and, in fact, lacked even proper linens on the tables, with short rose colored table cloths reminiscent of an informal European café instead.  Large bottles of balsamic vinegar were permanently stationed on the tables.  Strangely, we were not given lunch, so I can't really comment on service or food quality (thought I do have some observations about same in other areas). 

The casual dining/buffet area was actually far more attractive with many nooks and booths to have a more private dining experience in .  The buffets, mirrored on port and starboard, were not large.  (As it was a turnaround day and very few guests were onboard, the offerings were minimal...but what was there was very ordinary.)  I think I would actually enjoy dining in this area rather than the main dining room in the evenings - though its food offerings might change that.  (Costa is known of lively themes and entertainment during dinner...another miss for me.)

The cabins, as I mentioned, are very basic, though some travel agents who specialize in Carnival thought they were very nice.  Lots of light rose color (flesh-tone) with virtually no artwork and old televisions, a small desk and small sofa.  There was nice storage, both hanging and drawer space.  The standard bathrooms were tough, with that sort of bluish fiberglass feel and ugly fluorescent lighting with a shower that was really part of the room (separated by a curtain and a water dam on the floor).  There were a few "suites", though I really don't think any of them were worthy of that moniker...and some just had a very strange layout (as if someone wanted to create a suite atmosphere out of a large cabin...so 20% of the space was lost to otherwise unnecessary walls.) 

The main and secondary show lounges both had very low ceilings which cut off views of the stage.  It was very uncomfortable for me to sit in those areas.  The feeling was one of "it functions", not grandeur or even being special.

After our ship's tour we were taken to the secondary show lounge on Deck 1.  There we were met by waiters holding large rectangular trays with virgin versions of various umbrella drinks.  This was followed by waiters passing a variety of four different canapés.  Unfortunately they were as cold as the drinks and at least half the time no cocktail napkins were offered.  As time went on waiters would come around and take away the glasses, but never removed any of the other items (used toothpicks, orange rinds, cocktail napkins, etc.)  So over the course of the hour we sat there - with no lunch - some people had nice little stacks of garbage...which the waiters would shuffle glasses around.

Remembering that I was just on the Celebrity Equinox for 13 days, I could not help but make comparisons.  But before doing so, it would only be fair to compare the prices.  Costa works pretty much on 7 day cruises while Celebrity European cruises tend to be longer.  I took an August 2010 cruise out of Civitavecchia for comparison.  Seven days on Costa in a balcony runs about $1,929 per person ($275 per day) and ten days on Celebrity runs about $2,549 per person ($255 per day).  That is what really hit me.

Celebrity Equinox is a state of the art ship that has five or more dining venues with very good food and service, great cabins and bathrooms, true suites if you want them, open soaring spaces, and lots of innovations.  While Costa's newer ships do have a number of improvements that make up some of the differences, the Celebrity Millennium class ships are the same age as the Costa Atlantica and they also have so many advantages, from cabins to public spaces, from cuisine to service.

So why would you cruise on Costa:  Itineraries.  Costa has some of the most interesting and unique itineraries out there.  Costa sails pretty much anywhere.  Mauritius, Africa, Middle East, Libya, etc.  Many places that other cruise lines simply do to go to.  Would I take a Costa cruise if the itinerary was perfect?  I am not sure.  Would others?  With over 60% of the Italian market and about 40% of the European market, the answer is a resounding, "Yes".

 

Regent Seven Seas - Upscale But Not Luxury...Its In The New Dress Code

Like its sister brand, Regent Seven Seas is going casual.  Gone are formal nights for any cruise less than 16 days.  In other words, other than World Cruise and World Cruise Segments, formal nights will be a rarity.

This is the language used by Regent when making the announcement.  Read it carefully:

Effective with the 2009/2010 New Year's cruises, guests are respectfully requested to adhere to the following guidelines:


Daytime Dress Code (until 6 p.m.) - During the day, resort style clothing (including shorts, warm-up suits, jeans and sneakers) is acceptable in all public areas. Bare feet are acceptable only on the Pool Deck. Note: Bathing suits, while acceptable at the Pool Bar and Grill, are not considered appropriate in any indoor venue.

Evening Dress Code (after 6 p.m.) - Two types of dress code have been established for evenings in public areas: Elegant Casual and Formal Optional. The number of Formal Optional nights is dependent upon the length of the cruise, as follows:


• Cruises of fifteen nights or less will be Elegant Casual for the duration
• Cruises of sixteen nights or more will have two Formal Optional nights


Elegant Casual: Skirt, or slacks (no jeans) with blouse or sweater, pant suit or dress for ladies; slacks (no jeans) and collared shirt for gentlemen. Sport jackets are optional. Note: Jeans, T-shirts, baseball caps, shorts, sneakers and bathrobes are not considered appropriate in any public area after 6 p.m.


Formal Optional: While guests are welcome to dress each evening as per the Elegant Casual dress code, during Formal Optional evenings, guests may opt for a more formal choice of clothing including gowns and cocktail dresses for ladies; tuxedos, dinner jackets or dark suit with tie for gentlemen.

The first thing I did when I read this was pause at the instructions regarding bare feet.  Are there really that many people that cruise Regent that need to be instructed that bare feet are not acceptable other than at the pool?

Then I read the repeated use of the term "jeans".  Once again, I paused and wondered from where did the issue of wearing jeans become an issue on a luxury line?

It was then time to read about bathrobes not being acceptable in the public areas in the evenings, but only bathing suits are not acceptable at indoor venues at any time.  So I pondered, where would one where a appropriately wear a bathrobe when inside the ship?

All of this leads me to be wonder who it is these rules are focused on addressing.  The rules themselves are fair enough and I know there are many that will applaud the "no formal nights" policy, but I do wonder about the need and focus on rather questionable practices...questionable on most all cruise lines. 

BTW, I am aware there are already disputes and discussion about whether a tennis or polo shirt qualifies as a collared shirt.  And, as I have written and cautioned about before, the "slippery slope" has now been stepped onto. 

So with FREE air,  FREE drinks, FREE gratuities, FREE tours and an explicit NO JEANS and NO FORMAL NIGHTS policy, I have to ask myself what the heck happened to the philosophy that luxury travelers seek value and style?  I believe the answer is that Regent is abandoning its desire to focus on luxury, but rather is focusing on providing an upscale experience.  You know, like it sister Oceania does.

And if you think I am being negative, I am not. I believe that is exactly the market Regent should be focused on.  It is a market they can exceed the expectations of...and Regent can stop spinning its wheels trying to be that which it is not. 

Now, if Regent would only bring its pricing down a bit. 

We Love to Cruise. We Love Fish. Shark Free Marinas May Help Protect Both

Many of you may not know that I have an honor's degree in Biology with a focus on Marine Biology.  Born on the Jersey Shore (the oceanfront in New Jersey) and as a former biological aid for the National Marine Fisheries Service, I have lived my life loving the oceans and its marine life.

During the recent Goldring Travel Food & Wine Cruise I was blessed with the opportunity to visit the Fonda aquaculture farm in Slovenia and was thrilled to see it being done right.  It was clean, high quality and run by people that cared.

But the real highlight was seeing a small sea turtle...something not even the owners had ever seen at their farm.  Sea turtles used to be fairly common, but overfishing, habitat destruction and pollution have decimated their populations.  What was once a common sight has become a very rare opportunity...and an occurrence which is as sad as it is happy.

Yesterday I was made aware of an organization called Shark Free Marinas (http://www.sharkfreemarinas.com/) which encourages marinas to prohibit the landing of sharks in an effort to have shark fisherman engage in a "catch and release" program similar to what is now mandated for billfish, such as marlin and sailfish.  Check out their short video:

You can read more about the horrific over- and wasteful, shark fishing, and lend additional support, at the Cousteau Society's Shark and Ray Project.

We love to cruise and enjoy exotic foods, but the next time you are in Asia (or an Asian restaurant) and say, "You know I have never tried (or I Love) shark fin soup or a shark steak", please ask yourself if your few moments of individual pleasure is really worth it. 

And, without being too preachy, remember that the excuses that "Well it is already dead" and "It is only one" only encourage the the shark fisherman to kill another one...It is only one more, right?

Seabourn Cancels 2010-2011 Africa Cruises: Pirates and the Caribbean

Unfortunately, Seabourn has cancelled the Seabourn Legend's late 2010 and 2011 cruises in the Indian Ocean due to continued concerns over piracy.  While the ports are safe, it is the travel from port to port that is the issue.  Seabourn has restated its commitment to providing luxury cruising opportunities in Africa and the surrounding areas, but until the piracy situation is brought under better control it simply is not viable.

What will be a great disappointment for the luxury traveler looking for exotic destinations will be a boon for those looking for a convenient luxury experience in the Caribbean.  The Seabourn Legend will be hosting a number of cruises out of Ft. Lauderdale and St. Thomas; some with extended itineraries.

For those looking for exotic alternatives, in November 2010 the Seabourn Spirit will reposition from the Mediterranean to Asia transiting the Suez Canal and making port calls in Egypt, Oman and Dubai.   Thereafter she will head to India, Thailand and Malaysia and base in Singapore to begin a season of cruises visiting Bali, Borneo and the islands of the Java, Flores and Savu seas with a few cruises reaching as far south as Darwin and Cairns, Australia. 

Seabourn Pride's focus on Asia year-round will not change and the Seabourn Odyssey will make a maiden circumnavigation of South America in early 2011.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Some Final Thoughts

The Goldring Travel 2009 Food & Wine Cruise had a number of moments that made this cruise something truly special, even as compared to the normal, excellent experience, one has on Seabourn. Each suite was provided with a host of no-cost extras:


1. A travel book on the cruise area;

2. A culinary book focused on the cruise area;

3. An exceptional walking wine and food tour in Venice, Italy before the cruise;

4. A private galley tour with a special wine and caviar;

5. A private trip to the Fonda aquaculture farm in Slovenia;

6. A high quality wine tasting (5 wines and a grappa) at Santomas winery in Slovenia; and,

7. My being available to deal with whatever issues come up along the way whether it be how to cost-effectively get from the ship to the airport in Venice or making last minute arrangements for an extended stay in Venice when the city was effectively “sold out” to, say, finding a little place to enjoy an espresso or a couple of bottles of wine.

I am pleased that each of these provided my group with some real added value, both economically and experientially.

One thing that really stood out for me was that, unlike what I am reading more about on other cruise lines (such as Regent Seven Seas), there was absolutely no sense of a particular waiter or bartender being “the best”, but rather there was a desire to enjoy the styles and personalities of every waiter and bartender, purser and stewardess. Each person mentioned they loved Arnold or Hein, David or Heidi, Leigh or Jeremy, but there was never a concern that there would be a drop in service…It simply never happened. And from Captain to Hotel Manager to Chef, the Seabourn senior officers were omnipresent.

Another thing I appreciated was the cuisine was consistently excellent. There was almost nothing that was just OK. In reality, “excellent” was the norm and “very good” was the exception. I did notice a significant difference in variety between the Seabourn Spirit and the Seabourn Odyssey in the casual dining area. While I always found something to my liking, there is no question that from presentation to methods of cooking, the smaller yachts have their limitations…but Seabourn has a way of working with them so that the culinary product is merely different, not of lesser quality.

I started the cruise with a designed and concentrated effort to utilize Seabourn’s tours. The concept, for me, failed miserably. The first tour was a struggle (especially having to be compared with our Venetian Wine Walk the day before), the second tour was cancelled due to Shopping With The Chef, the third was cancelled due to a lack of interest, the fourth was a wonderful wine tasting overshadowed by a overwhelming guide and local music and, by then, I just couldn’t be bothered with the fifth, so I did my own thing…and found a little bit of heaven.

While I enjoy learning more about the history of a port and seeing more of its countryside than can usually be accomplished without a tour or guide, for me, personally, focusing on wandering the town and finding that special restaurant or shop or scene or person is just more of what I prefer my travel to be. Such an approach is unnerving and/or unfulfilling for some, but alas that is why they make chocolate and vanilla ice cream. And I do enjoy both, but definitely have more vanilla than chocolate. In other words, I am not “anti-tour” I just think I need to be very selective in what they are.

All in all, the 2009 Goldring Travel Food & Wine Cruise on the Seabourn Spirit was a great success. We enjoyed many different wines and while the foods were not nearly as varied as in the past, they were very much enjoyed…especially the fish. Most importantly, as we explored four countries in seven days, we had fun. We had lots of fun.

It was “The Best”!

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Doing It The Iamboatman Way

Note:  As the internet was effectively non-functioning during most of the cruise I have posted a number of blog entries all at once.  Be sure to start at the bottom and work you way up to this one.

The next day, our last, was Trieste, Italy. I had booked a tour which was to highlight some castles and local wines, but I was pretty toured out after our Slovenian guide, Montenegro being such a disappointment and Otapaji being just OK, so I cancelled and went with another couple for a walk around town.

Trieste is a beautiful town with wonderful architecture, lots of cafes and shopping. In a typical Iamboatman manner, we looked at this café and that café for a place to have a coffee. And then I saw “the place”. It was an ancient wine bar called La Tecia which was oozing: rounded brick ceilings, wooded arched supports and tiny tables crammed into dimly lit spaces. We ordered two local wines (Fantin Nodar Friulano Tocai - a white; and Lis Neris Bottigua - a cab) and a platter of salami, prosciutto and fresh ham and another of a variety of cheeses.

There we sat for a couple of hours thinking, “This is the best”. It was. I had another great food & wine moment and it was with my wife and good friends happened upon by accident and enjoyed feeling just a little bit like a local.

A bit of power shopping thereafter (always dangerous after drinking wine for two hours!) and it was time to return to the Seabourn Spirit to pack and for a final soak in the forward spa watching the world go by and talking about nothing.

A final excellent dinner with great service and wonderful food (duck breast), coupled with a nice Cote de Rhone and it was off to the Club as it was a bit too windy for the Sky Bar. David, a proper butler (and a quirky, but charming young man), prepared my final cigar – and he is magic with it – and it another memorable moment on deck, watching the seagulls and terns fishing in the water lit by the lights of the Seabourn Spirit as we sailed out of Treiste.

It was, alas, time for the 2009 Goldring Travel Food & Wine Cruise to come to an end.

I will provide some final thoughts separately.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Food, Wine and, ummm, Music

The second part of our day in Koper, Slovenia was the private Ensemble Experience which was a tour of Piran followed by a wine tasting at Santomas vineyards. The town tour was hampered by a guide that talked way, way, way too much. That, however, became a distant memory when we arrived at the winery. Santomas is breathtakingly beautiful and, remarkably, the present facility is only two years old (and a labor of love by its owner). Everything from the pressing area to the restaurant where we had our tasting was done first class.

Not expecting much, I was really blown away by the quality of these moderately priced wines. I won’t bore you with the varieties other than to note that each of the five wines (one white, three red, one dessert) were interesting in their own rights and were presented with a really nice offering of prosciutto, a variety of cheeses, olives, local bread and, for the dessert wine, pastries.

A first class experience.

There was one funny/frustrating aspect: The tour company provided us with a Slovenian folk music trio that sang and played a bit too loudly for the entire tasting. When the tasting was over they hopped in their car and headed to…the Seabourn Spirit for the barbeque. That resulted in our group listening to about three hours of Slovenian folk music…and a serious headache! But I digress.

We arrived back at the ship just in time to wash up and hit the deck for the always great Deck Barbeque albeit we were still at the dock. The highlight was the Fonda sea bass. It was so good (and I am a picky fish eater) I shunned most of the offerings and had two fish! Give credit to the fish and to the Seabourn galley staff. They could have easily ruined the fish by being fancy or not giving it enough respect. Instead, with Bjoern’s guidance, it was perfection!

After a bit of the Rock the Boat show on deck, I called it an early evening retreated to my suite for about 45 minutes just to have some quiet. Like I was being set up, at returned to the Sky Bar at 11:00 pm for the sailaway…and like a bad joke the Slovenian folk music started again. Fortunately, the ship was starting to move and the music faded away. A nightcap under the stars and all was right with the Seabourn world.

Between visiting the Fonda aquaculture farm, the Santomas wine tasting and the Deck Barbeque it was a truly fantastic day.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Its About The Fish!

Chef Bjoern arranged for a private inspection of a aquaculture farm outside Koper, Slovenia. Having a background in marine biology and worked as a biological aid for the United States’ National Marine Fisheries Service I was quietly very excited for this. I think the others were more like, “OK. That’ll be ‘interesting’”.

Our “guide” for our journey to the Fonda aquaculture farm in Piran, Slovenia, Irena Fonda, was a bit quiet at first, but this charming woman with a doctorate in molecular biology, came alive when we reached what we would learn is her family business. We boarded an ordinary 10 passenger pontoon boat with a bag of fish food, some water and what I thought was three bottles of champagne improperly iced upside down in a bucket of ice along with a very nice blue shopping bag.

The process of raising the fish(sea bass or locally known as branzino), which takes five (5) years was explained and it was emphasized that the nets are free of all antibiological agents which would kill organisms trying to grow on the nets, that would also introduce poison to the fish. As such a very labor intensive process of net replacement and manual cleaning is required. Also, rather than the fish being fed lots of low quality feed and artificial colors which would cause them to get fat (and thus to market weight, but at low quality, quicker) and look pretty (think color added to farmed salmon), these fish are fed less more often and the amounts eaten are measured every day. (My wife now understands why I have always said do not purchase farm raised fish: It isn’t terribly healthy, it looks funny to me and it doesn’t taste that good either.)

After stopping at the large round nets (each of which were pristine) with increasing larger fish we had a surprise: a very rare sighting of a young sea turtle. They were more excited than we were as they had never seen a sea turtle in their waters. Just a little bonus and a harbinger of the magic that was about to happen.

Tied off to one of the nets a presentation was made. The bag contained a Styrofoam box with a nurtured five year old sea bass fish beautifully presented and protected all of which was explained as to everything from the wrapping to the date tagging (so you know the fish is fresh) to the frozen gel used (as ice would melt and injure the meat). While the fish was then being prepared for some sashimi tasting (which was incredible) we savored gently smoked sea bass.

Oh, yes, that upside down champagne was actually a great treat. It was a Refusco wine prepared in a champagne style. The cool thing about the wine is that it is not purged in the process as is done with champagne, so the sediment is allowed to settle in the neck of the bottle, which is then opened. underwater (quite a feat!). It was a delicious and paired, surprisingly, well with the fish. (Those of the “You don’t drink red wine with fish” really have it wrong!!)
Then as we started to have the sashimi it was explained that Fonda also presses its own olive oil from its private grove and it also uses salt from the salt farm right next door…and it was all being served to us.

After a tour of the salt farm, which still produces the salt by hand processes that date back hundreds of years, Bjoern, the Seabourn chef then arranged for some sea bass to be delivered to the ship for the Deck Barbeque that evening.

What an experience!

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Split, Croatia: Shopping With the Chef & Chilling Out Seabourn Style

Unfortunately there was a failure of the motherboard for the internet satellite system on board, so posting my blog as it was happening just wasn’t possible. Nonetheless, here it is…and know that it was, in the end, one of the best cruises I have ever taken.


We started our day in Split, Croatia, after a very pleasant breakfast at the Veranda, Shopping With the Chef. Because the interest was so great, Seabourn expanded the number that could go to about 30, which was a bit much, but which also had Seabourn arrange for a guide to give us a short walking tour. After a brief orientation it was off to the fish market.

It was a bit lean in the smallish fish market with clear signs of overfishing taking its toll. It was especially sad to see small soles that haven’t had even a chance to breed being offered for sale. The Chef purchased some sea bass and sardines as there wasn’t much else of interest. (The sardines wound up in the Veranda for lunch the next day and the sea bass became part of the Chef’s Tasting Menu.)

It was then a short walk through the really interesting and pretty walled city to the vegetable and fruit market. Things were much more robust there and it seemed that everyone was selling tiny Italian plums. (Local grapes were delivered to everyone’s suites later in the day.)

We thanked the Seabourn staff as it was time to explore more of Split, a town I would readily come back to. It really just felt like a very friendly place to be and it was just enjoyable. We stopped in a café and noticed that the food really wasn’t very exciting, consisting of some pretty standard fare…and pizza was offered everywhere. (I had given, as “pillow gifts”, a book on Croatian cooking, so I knew it was not going to be a world class experience, but rather more one of comfort foods.) We ordered some Croatian beer (I do not recall the brand) and, to be honest, it was awful. The aftertaste stayed with me literally for hours. That pretty much shot any chance at discovering the Croatian wines (and I heard from others on the tour I was originally going to take that the wines really were pretty ordinary).

After a very relaxing day in a beautiful place we headed up to the forward whirlpool – having joked with Jaco, the bar waiter, very early in the day that we would be there at 3:30 p.m. – and at precisely 3:30 p.m. he arrived with glasses and a bottle of champagne. A few of us spent the rest of the afternoon in the forward spa. This was followed by another bottle of champagne and the ever important supervision of the locals fishing (and watching one particularly curious cuttlefish who seemed interested in everything). And then it was time for the sailaway. It was, simply, a Seabourn afternoon.

I received a note when I returned to my suite that the ultra-luxury wine tasting and lunch at the best restaurant in Kotor, Montenegro has been cancelled due to lack of interest and, with virtually no time to arrange anything else, I was kind of stuck. But, alas, I had a plan…and would be very happy if it worked. It was then a wonderful dinner and an evening sitting under the stars enjoying it all with friends…a great Seabourn evening.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Meeting Up With The Big Sister & Chef's Surprises

The next day in Kotor, Montenegro, started out with a bit of excitement. When I stepped into the Veranda for breakfast the Seabourn Odyssey was berthed right behind us. It was great to see her again and also to say hello to some of my clients who were enjoying a cruise on her.

An interesting note for those of you who think she is too large: I have two couples sailing with me who thought the same thing…until they saw her in person. They are now very excited to cruise with her on the 2010 Goldring Travel Food & Wine Cruise. And those on the Seabourn Odyssey concerned that their experience would be less personal came away with a very positive and personal experience.

It was then off to walk around the old city and, possibly, walk up the incredibly steep hillside to a church and fortress. My first impression while I was walking through the local market was one similar to that I had when visiting the Ukraine: It could be really nice, but there is just a sort of slightly not maintained, slightly dirty, less than energetic, feel about the place. There was not a restaurant or café that attracted me and the shops were very ordinary. Others complained about beggars, though I didn’t see any.

We did start the climb up the absurdly steep hill, but we knew starting out making it to the top is something you have to really want to do. When we reached the point where it said 2€ per person, we stopped and quickly retreated to level ground and a more comfortable walk.

Now for my plan: I decided to try to make my own wine tasting and gourmet lunch at the restaurant we were to visit. So we walked over to it and it was allegedly all booked out for a group that was not for the Seabourn Spirit or the Seabourn Odyssey. Curious...and I am looking into this.

At that point I didn’t want to further impact my day, so we returned to the Spirit for a nice lunch at the Sky Bar, a sleep and a soak in the forward spa. After beating my head against the wall, not knowing of the seriousness of the internet issue, it was time for a an exceptional Chef’s Tasting Menu for dinner.

The next day was a late rise as it was a Marina Day in Truike Bay, Croatia. After a dip in the marina’s pool, it was a banana ride followed by kayaking where a friend and I somehow wound up pulling our wives’ paddleboat around the bay. It was then a Sky Bar lunch.

My group was then given a private tour of the galley with Bjoern, the executive chef, and some very nice wine and caviar. Really having the time to understand all that goes on in the galley puts things into some perspectives you would never think of. I will write more about this another time, as it really is a topic unto itself, but just know that I will never arrive for dinner at 9:00 p.m. again as it really puts the galley into chaos. (It is not improper, but it just isn’t something I would do because I would feel guilty.)

After our tour it was a bit of relaxation and boy would we need it for our day in Koper, Slovenia was jam packed! Bjoern let us know we had another surprise in store: An early morning private experience before our afternoon Ensemble tour.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Finally Onboard...Err, I Mean, Home!

We boarded the Seabourn Spirit and it was, as it should be in our dreams, like coming home. Everything was as it was when we left months ago: Consistently exceptional.


As we boarded so late, after our walking wine tour, we had just enough time to go to our suite, see the incredible flower display Pam Conover had placed in our suite (when I die they should be so nice!), unpack (an unusual treat for us!) and head up for the muster drill. This was quickly followed by the sailaway – with champagne flowing…and there is no better sailaway than Venice.

We were invited to dine with the Rachael, Assistant Cruise Director, from South Wales, the first night. At that point I didn’t know if she could sing or dance, but what I did quickly learn was that she was absolutely charming. During dinner the chef, Bjoern Wassmuth, stopped by and let me know that he had arranged “Shopping With The Chef” in Split, Croatia and that we were already on the list. I figured that would be better than the Taste of Split tour I had signed up for, so my plans for a guided trip changed a bit.

Dinner was flawless, both in cuisine and conversation. After a nice tawny port with my favorite, the cheese platter, it was up to the Sky Bar for an evening whiskey, a nice cigar and some good conversation. It was as if I was…no I was…at home.

The next morning, in Optaija, Croatia, I was “blessed” with my tour of Krk Island and Nada Winery starting out at 8:15 a.m. I have Island. It was nice to see the Croatian countryside, and the excellent roads, but it wasn’t really what I was looking for as the ride was long. We stopped at the lovely little town of Omisalj which was very much asleep on the early Sunday morning. From there it was another 45 minutes to Vrbnik, a really charming town which towers over the sea complete with wonderful stone buildings, narrow streets and interesting architectural details.

We were let off at the Nada Winery…and I immediately knew that the winery was not what I thought it would be. We were served original, herb and fig grappa (komovica) before we were escorted into the building’s basement for a promotional video…all before our wine tasting. If you are even marginally interested in understanding a wine, drinking grappa beforehand pretty much assures it will not happen. So I soldiered on…I mean unless it is really bad wine I’ll drink it. Eventually we were seated in a very attractive restaurant where bottles of a white wine (Zlahtina), a red wine (forgot the name) and a dessert wine (Prosek) were set on the table with one glass per person with small plates of a cured ham and cheese. The wines were really nothing to speak of.and no one actually spoke of them. Not much of a wine tasting. It was a wander around town before heading back to the ship after another long drive.

It was, surprisingly,already formal night and we were invited to dine with the Captain, Magnus Bengtsson, which was enjoyable and a good bit of fun. We had a bit of a chat about his time as staff captain o f the Seabourn Odyssey during and after its construction as well as some of the plans for the Seabourn Sojourn.

A nightcap at the Sky Bar and looking forward to Split in the morning.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Walking With Wine In Venice

Saturday started with our small group meeting up for a quick traghetto ride from Ca’ Sagredo Hotel to the Rialto market just on the other side of the Grand Canal. The variety of fresh fish, shellfish, vegetables and fruits were fantastic. It is not, however, anything like, say, La Boqueria in Barcelona. It is smaller, but more importantly, it is not nearly as busy. It is Venice and Venetians simply are not in a hurry…ever. It was a lovely way to slowly start our Food & Wine Cruise.


When we returned to the hotel our sommelier, Mario, was there waiting for us. With degrees not only for wine, but for cheese tasting, I knew things would be interesting, but wasn’t sure how it all would play out. (Lots of lecture and not enough enjoyment makes wine and food rather dull and unexciting.) I was also a bit concerned if we might find ourselves schlepping all over Venice.

Silly me! Mario gave us a true life memory as we did our walking tour the Venetian way: We walked only a little and relaxed, enjoyed some wonderful wines and learned not only about wines, but some of the wines really found only around Venice. But more importantly, we watched the world go by while soaking just being in Venice. The three and one half hours seemed like 10 minutes.

Our first ostaria (wine bar) was only a few minutes from the hotel. We sat outside and enjoyed a Bersi Serlini Franciacorta (2004) Brut Cuvee which is a sparkling wine, which was paired with a very fresh (made that day) mozzarella and tomato combination. This was followed by a Tenuta La Ponca Tocai Friulano paired with bacala and a spicy Asiago cheese that was amazing. (Learning about cheese tasting was really very interesting.) I will spare you the tasting notes, but do consider the wines…if you can find them.

After a leisurely 1 ½ hours tasting the two wines we were off for a ten minute walk to Ostaria al Ponte, which is the oldest ostaria in Venice. The place was jam packed with people and overflowed into the street. With us huddled in a corner with a great view of the place- which looked like it came right out of the movies (not fancy, but ordinary in an extraordinary way), we were served two large wooded platters of a variety of cheeses and two more with a variety of Italian hams. In other words, “the good stuff”. We first tasted a Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli (2005) which was thoroughly enjoyable and then had a wine that just stopped me.

It was Masi Serègo Alighieri Possessioni Rosso Veronese IGT (2006). I looked at Mario and said that the wine was meant to be drunk by itself. It was fine with the meats and cheeses, but to me they actually interfered with the wine. He smiled and said someone called it a “mediation wine”; one you have when you just want to relax and free your mind.

Just as a note, the wines we tasted were not expensive averaging only about 25 Euros each in the ostaria.

We all were up for tasting more, but the time flew and we needed to collect our bags and take a water taxi to the Seabourn Spirit.

Seabourn Spirit 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - The Start: It's All About The Clothes???

The flights to London and on to Venice were fast and, in fact, early. The only problem was that none of our luggage was quite as fast. Apparently there was an issue at London Gatwick and many bags didn’t make the flight. They say they will be delivered this evening. I hope so. I don’t want to start two Food & Wine cruises on the Seabourn Spirit without any clothes!

That said, we are, once again, staying the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel in Venice. We have an incredible room which is just over-the-top. I will post photos later, but suffice it to say the king size bed is dwarfed, the furnishings are spectacular and the plaster ceiling you can stare at for hours. Oh, and did I mention, the Grand Canal is right outside our window. Did I mention anything about our luggage?

Our room actually wasn’t quite ready when we arrived at 12:00 p.m. so we took a little stroll to a restaurant we enjoyed the last time we were in Venice (for the Inaugural Cruise of the Seabourn Odyssey). We were greeted with belinis to relax us. We decided on a carafe of a local prosecco and I started with sardines which were fried and then sautéed with sweet onions. After watching so many cooking shows and reality shows going on and on about risotto (and truly never having one that made me happy) I said, “I gotta be able to have good risotto here”. So we ordered the seafood risotto.

Having a nice wait while it was prepared we watched some of the everyday Venetians go about their business. At about 1:30 p.m. school must have let out for there was a long parade of middle school age children going this way and that with their backpacks, and smiling, but never in a rush. This is Venice, of course.

Our risotto arrived before we could see it. It had that wonderful scent of the sea…from a good distance. Suffice it to say it was magnificent. I now know what they were going on about being able to taste each little pearl. And right about then I was thinking, “The world is my oyster.” I think there is something about some clothes that I am supposed to tend to, but I just can’t remember what it was.

After a sleep and shaking off the time change, it was time for drinks on the Grand Canal and then some dinner. A few of us went to a nice restaurant where we enjoyed reuniting and catching up on things. I could not resist the spaghetti with cuttlefish ink followed by a really delicious seafood soup with clams, mussels, scallops, prawns, langoustine, chunks of fish and a wonderful tomato and olive oil broth with just a little bit of spice…of course coupled with a nice local white wine.

Then back to the suite for a relatively early evening. Opened my luggage and…it all just came together: We are having a wonderful time in Venice, looking forward to our wine walk tomorrow and then our boarding the Seabourn Spirit.

Berlitz 2010 Scores: Seabourn is the World's Best Cruise Line

Douglas Ward annually publishes his Berlitz ‘Complete Guide to Cruising and Cruise Ships’. In the about to be released 2010 edition (the 25th edition) he ranks every Seabourn ship in its uppermost echelon.

Mr. Ward bases his review on a plethora of items with each weighted as he deems appropriate: Cabin storage; amenities; service; food quality; ship facilities; decor; etc. If you read Mr. Ward's reviews of virtually every cruise ship out there, you will find that he has some definite likes and dislikes and standards which may or may not be the same as yours. For example, comment is regularly made on the cheese selections which for most would not be sufficiently high on the one's rating radar to mention it when going to press. (I happen to love cheese, so I enjoy his comments, but I am fascinated that he tends not to mention whether a proper cup of tea can be obtained.)

Some refer to the annual review as a "bible". I think that is a bit of an overstatement. It can be a valuable resource, however. The information and ratings, even with Mr. Ward's personal preferences, are about as objective as anything out there. No ballot stuffing. No kissing up to a particular cruise line. So what you have is one man's measuring of how each ship matches up with his ideal cruise ship. As I said, it isn't perfect, but when trying to objectively find information about a particular ship and comparing one ship to another I don't think there is a better single source out there.

It is reported that for 2010 the Seabourn Odyssey was the top Seabourn ship with a total of 1,787 points out of a possible 2,000 (second in the ratings only to his longtime favorite Hapag Lloyd’s Europa ). Following very closely behind are the Seabourn Legend which scored 1,779, the Seabourn Spirit at 1,700 and the Seabourn Pride with 1,769.

You will note that the Seabourn Odyssey did not rate that much higher than the Seabourn triplets...(or is that the triplets did not rate that much lower than the Seabourn Odyssey?). That is, I mentioned, a function of what Mr. Ward places emphasis on. You will also note that the Seabourn Legend rated slightly higher than its two virtually identical sisters. (Interesting as the Legend has only one lavatory sink in each suite, while the Pride and Spirit have two. Possibly there was an incredible meal, a special wine or better cheese to bump up the Legend's rating?)

Overall that indicates there is - as there should be - a great consistency among and between each of the four ships. And, of course, that Seabourn has the top fleet of luxury cruise ships...from cuisine to service...out there.

Is Regent Seven Seas Changing Its Tune? Is It Now Not Overpromising? Is It Getting It Right?

I have harped on Regent Seven Seas claims of "6 Star Luxury" not only because it is hype, but because it simply has a history of not delivering it either in consistent luxury quality food or service.  As I have said, there is always a danger in over-promising and under-delivering.  Create reasonable expectations and then exceeding them is magic...for the cruise line and the guest.

Tonight I want to a Regent Seven Seas seminar which was, refreshingly, absent hype.  Gone was any reference to "6 Star" anything. No mention of superior cuisine or service.  "Luxury Goes Exploring" was gone.  Now it is "The Most Inclusive Luxury Cruise Experience Ever". Any you know what, I can not only live with that, I can work with it.

Yes, there was a comparison of a Silversea cruise with a Regent cruise showing Regent was a better value when you consider it being air inclusive (or take a credit), tour inclusive (if you take those tours), etc.  But what was really interesting to me was that comparisons were made to Holland America and Princess cruises.  The discussion was of included drinks and water, gratuities and tours (and, yes, comparing the free Regent tours with Holland American tours is fair.)  Honestly, when you make those comparisons, Regent may start looking like a viable option if you want to upscale (not not luxuriate) your cruise. 

You need to be careful when comparing prices for the "free" airfare and the value of the "free" tours, but I think the exercise may well be worth undertaking when comparing Regent to premium lines.  That is, obviously where I think the Regent product (other than its outstanding suites) more accurately compare. And where it gets interesting is that Regent's cuisine and suites do significantly exceed Holland America's and Princess's cuisine.  (Nice bonuses that might give Regent an edge when it comes out slightly more expensive for the value cruiser.)

And, more importantly, by lowering the bar of performance and raising the bar on marketing value, Regent has a much better chance of having happy passengers which means it will have a greater chance of repeat business and referrals.  As I have repeatedly said: Regent is not a bad product - far from it.  It is just that Regent is not the luxury product it has been marketing itself as; no less one which exceeds the standards of Silversea or Seabourn.

I think Regent may be getting it right.  (But then again, it is raising its prices on at least 36% of its 2010 cruises by $500 or more effective September 30, 2009...and that might well hurt the very comparisons I just told you about.) 

Goldring Travel's 2009 Food & Wine Cruise on the Seabourn Spirit - Some Pre-Cruise Thoughts and My Plan

Organizing this year's Food & Wine Cruise has been a bit "interesting" and a bit frustrating. But, in the end, it will be a great time and a wonderful experience.

The economy took a toll with not only some cancellations immediately after the stock market meltdown, but with an unfortunate last minute cancellation. Making matters worse (at least for me), contrary to what you have heard, this particular cruise has been oversold for many months! So people that were interested in joining the cruise after the cancellatoins were unable to...even if they were willing to pay for an upper suite! That, obviously, left me with a smaller group than normal, but some great opportunities to do things a bit differently.

The first thing I did was create a more intimate special event. Rather than a more formal wine tasting onboard the Seabourn Spirit, I arranged a walking wine and food tour in Venice with a a certified Italian Sommelier (AIS) and Master Cheese Taster (ONAF) where we will sample no less than 6 wines and quite a number of cicchetti (Italian tapas, if you will) after an early morning (at least for Venice) wander through the Rialto Market.

Then I decided that with a more intimate group I had the ability to take a really hard look at Seabourn's new Epicurean Collection of shore excursions. While, for example, Regent Seven Seas is focusing on no additional cost and more crowded tours, Seabourn eliminated its somewhat underutilized complimentary Seabourn Experiences on most cruises, and has upscaled its offerings and truly limited the number of people who can participate in certain of them. (Remember, I don't believe in the "a group is joined by the hip" approach, but rather there are limited - but worthwhile - group experiences...like the Venice walking tour.)

For example, in Montenegro I am going to try out the "Montenegro's Resplendent Cuisine and Wines" Epicurean Tour , where we will start the day with a guided 1½ hour walking tour of Kotor's old town with its narrow streets and medieval plaza and then walk to Galion Restaurant and sit on its enclosed terrace cantilevered over the water where we will enjoy an introduction to Montenegrin wines while absorbing the breathtaking views of the Bay of Kotor. Your tasting will be lead by either a local winemaker or sommelier and will include wines made from local grape varietals like Vranac and Krsta, along with wines made from more familiar Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Our expert will talk about the different grape growing regions of Montenegro and reveal a few of the unique winemaking traditions. After the lesson, you'll enjoy more Montenegrin wines paired with a 3-course meal prepared by Galion's executive chef.

In Split, Croatia we will have a walking tour of the Old Town followed by trip to TERRA wine cellars, apparently in very unique old house, where we will have with a tasting of some of the region's various cold game cuts, traditionally prepared salamis, domestic deserts, and a great selection of Dalmatian wines.

In Triese, Italy we will travel to Duino Castle (about 30 minutes away) to explore its gardens and history and then it will be off to Castello di Spessa, the hospitality facility of the Pali Wines Group, to visit the prestigious cellar and taste some superb wines. Since the 16th century, Castello di Spessa has been producing top quality wines, but its present cellar is a fitted out old military bunker that built at the end of the '30s and used during the Second World War. We will then sample award-winning red and white wines in a charming 18th century atmosphere with exceptional scenery; again part of Seabourn's Epicurean Collection.

Uncharacteristically, I will be partaking of yet more organized shore opportunities. While I will most definitely have time to explore the port independently, I am using this cruise to sort of test out the extensive use of Seabourn's shore experiences so that I can let you know how they measure up. Sometimes challenging your comfort level can be doing the "ordinary", I guess. (I am not sure Seabourn offers "ordinary" and these experiences are nothing like those offered on larger ships, but it is probably as close as I am ever going to get!)

I will also be hosting the Ensemble Travel Group's complimentary shore experience in Kopor, Slovenia...where we will be visiting Šmarje near Capodistria, in the heart of Slovenian Istria, where there are the vineyards and olive orchards of Ludvik Nazarij Glavina. During the visit to the wine cellars there will be a tasting of five wines and grappa accompanied by a snack of local specialties such as homemade breads, olives, cheese and olive oil.
So, for me, if gout doesn't set in...or some other malady from excessively enjoying ones self...I am sure to have a great experience learning about some places I have never been...and one I love. Heck, isn't food and wine the key to an area's culture and history?

A Change in Cruise Line Pricing Is Happening!!!!

As you know I have long been a critic of looking at the advertised "discounts" by the cruise lines.

It doesn't matter if Silversea or Seabourn or Celebrity or Carnival is offering a 30% off fare in its brochures because, obviously (at least to me) they have never offered the cruise at full fare, so the alleged discount is no discount at all.

Of recent vintage that non-existent 30% discount has been transformed into 60+% discounts...and I won't even get into how that discount is calculated differently by various lines. Yes, there are some excellent deals, but they are not, by any means, 60% off.

The result has been clients calling me up asking why the "discount" isn't greater on one sailing versus another one; while they (it would seem, logically) never actually looked at comparing the actual cost of the cruises. If a cruise discounted 40% costs more than a similar cruise discounted 30%, obviously the better idea is to go with the lower cost cruise, not the more highly discounted one. It is, alas, soooo confusing to many cruisers.

It was reported this week that United Kingdom's Advertising Standards Authority has ruled that as to Silversea's offering huge alleged discounts, the practice must stop. So Silversea cannot utilize the 60% off marketing ploy it continues to use in the United States. It delayed the production of its UK brochures as well, while it formulated its new marketing strategy of booking earlier will result in greater savings.

As I noted in a recent post, this most definitely is not a Silversea issue, but rather an industry issue. In fact, the article references Crystal Cruises also reformulating its UK marketing strategy...and Crystal doesn't discount as a rule, but adds value in onboard credits and such.

While I suspect the change will not be happening too quickly in the U.S., at least you know better to not be misled by outrageous discount claims.

And, by the way, that is why I am a good travel agent. I have NEVER sold a cruise based upon an advertised discount rate. I ensure better for my clients. It takes more time, but in the end my clients receive excellent value for their money...And I also ensure they are on the correct cruise and itinerary (as a great price on the wrong ship and/or going to the wrong places isn't a deal at all!)

Regent Seven Seas - Raising Prices and Questions About It's Value

I kid you not, yesterday within but a few minutes of each other I received two emails. One was from Regent Seven Seas and another was from a client of mine who has cruised on Regent, among other lines.

The Regent email stated, in part:

2010 - Our Most Inclusive Year Ever...Prices Increase October 1, 2009....With many 2010 cruises already sold out, time is running out for you to take advantage of our exceptional savings offers. After September 30, 2009, prices will be increasing on nearly half of our voyages. You will still be able to enjoy Unlimited Complimentary Shore Excursions and Included Air, but 2-for-1 Fares plus up to an additional $1,000 per guest savings will no longer apply on select 2010 cruises effective October 1, 2009. But don't wait until then - book now as space is limited, many cruises are already sold out, and some suite categories are already full!

The client email (which was also posted on The Gold Standard Forum) stated:

Eric, I had to get this off my chest. Yesterday, I received 2 huge Regent books. One for Winter-Spring and one for Europe 2010. I assume you received them as well.



Forget the hype, did you take a look at the "list" pricing on these cruises ? I mean, really. What sane person would even swallow the prices they post as list. Add to that the prices they claim they save you for "complimentary" shore excursions. All they did was hyper inflate those prices as well. What they discount down to is still so high... I would never book Regent. Add to that....their food is mediocre and the service...horrible. Last year I ordered a lobster tail on formal night. It came still in the shell and after 5 minutes ....had to REQUEST a waiter remove it from my shell. As for their morning Veranda restaurant...try to get a second cup of coffee was like trying to stop a speeding bullet. Next to impossible.

Anyone sailing on Regent nowadays is being robbed.

Okay, I feel better now.

I previously wrote about the problem with faux discounts, but let me repeat it here.  Cruise lines make up the "Brochure Rate" and they make up the "discount".  As no one ever, ever, ever, pays Brochure Rate there is no such thing as an actual discount off of that.  The actual base rate would be what is commonly referred to as an "Early Booking Savings (EBS) Rate".  I don't care if it is Regent, or Carnival or Seabourn, virtually ever line does it.  (I know of cruises that have a 50% discount...and that is for 2011 sailings!)  Therefore, taking the extreme, if a 2011 cruise has a 50% discount already and it is then advertised with a 60% discount, the actual discount is actually no more than 10% (and how it is calculated can actually bring that figure down to around 7%).

But I digress, what Regent has done is not only exploit that concept, but added another layer: Marketing that you are getting a huge value in "free" tours which are, in real terms, just like the "free" drinks:  You are paying for them up front even if you don't use them. 

And that is where the problem becomes exacerbated:  Most "luxury" cruisers either don't take ship's tours or the ship's tours that Regent is offering as complimentary.  Supplements abound for better tours and limits are placed on the "free" ones.  So people are paying a premium for...what???

But there is more:  People are willing to pay if there is quality provided.  Honestly, though, I have never seen the number of complaints about the poor quality of Regent's service that I have in the past year or so.  I saw the product slipping for quite a while, but now it is just appalling.  Yes, you are going to get those that say it is the best while, if you read their words, the cruise actually (dare I say it) sucks.  And, to be fair, there are those that will have a really great cruise experience.  But there are many that just are not happy. 

And as a travel agent, you do not pay me to simply take your order.  You pay me to make sure you are the best cruise for you.  Not the one I make the most money on.  Not the one that gives me an incentive to book them.  Not the least expensive one.  The "best" one for that individual client.  And with the complaints flowing and the inconsistencies unable to be ignored, how the heck do I recommend Regent Seven Seas to my cruise clients???  Do I say, "You might have a great time; you might not."?

Well, as you can see, when Regent jacked up the prices and then gave the illusory big discounts one nerve was struck.  When the service and cuisine went from very good to no so much so, another nerve was struck.  And just as I work extremely hard to earn my client's business - not just for the present cruise but the future ones - Regent needs to do the same; especially now that many people are pained.

Me thinks there needs to be some fence mending by Regent Seven Seas...and starting with strengthening the product would be a great thing.  While the pricing methods of the cruise industry cannot be changed overnight, if the perception is that there is real value, luxury clients will pay a premium.  But if Regent continues to tell its guests that it "6 Star" and delivers quality that is "4, no 2, no 5, no 3, no 4 Star" it will find itself in a bad place.

Seriously, is it that hard to make a decent cup of coffee and serve it?  Can there be a system to serve everyone at a table at the same time?  Can pizza be removed that is more than 10 minutes old?  I mean they can do it at the local diner, why can't Regent do it consistently.  People will happily pay for it!!!!

Silversea Silver Spirit - A Short Video, Some Details and Some Thoughts

Ralph Grizzle, the Avid Cruiser, has created a short video of the new Silver Spirit as she is on her sea trials. I thought it might be of interest to you:



For those of you panicked that the ship will not be finished in time, know that the shipyard has a history of completing on time or early and that much of what needs to be installed is waiting in warehouses. Much gets done to make the ship look "done"; especially in the final weeks (not months). The soft goods are up to Silversea and I have previously reported on same.

I am holding out before commenting on the interiors any further. I am not seeing anything that makes me terribly excited so far. For example, the pool area is actually quite ordinary. (I haven't seen stacking three whirlpools so close together before, so maybe there is a concept there that hasn't been explained or developed, but that is about it for something of note that I see.)

Similarly, the spa is reported to be a mere 6,000+ square feet. That seems quite small when considering it is to service 540 luxury guests. By comparison the new Seabourn Odyssey's spa is 11,400 square feet and services about 20% fewer guests (450).

Most importantly to me, the essence of luxury cruising is the staff and crew. Other than Silversea announcing that every suite will have a butler (though what that butler substantively does in addition to what is normally provided...other than allowing you to see another uniform...hasn't been disclosed), Silversea has not advised how it plans on servicing 25-35% more guests than it does on its other ships or what it is doing to assure the staff on the Silver Spirit is fully trained and won't deplete the top staff on its other ships. (By contrast Seabourn made a big deal of its Seabourn Academy for its new staff...and it has, well and truly, paid off with consistently great service on all of its ships.) Silversea, if there is a program in place to assure great service, please let us know.

CruiseIndustryFacts.com - A New Source for Cruise Industry Information

Cruise Line International Association (CLIA) has announced it has a new website, http://www.cruiseindustryfacts.com/ .  It is not a place for gossip or inside industry news, but rather a resource for all those questions about health, safety and environmental issues, including data and useful links.

It is not a site for most, but for some it may well be a treasure trove of answers to questions about regulations and operations.

Some Inspiration to Book a Cruise Before The End of This Year - A Little Contest.

I thought I would share some photos from my cruise on the Celebrity Equinox...just to inspire those who are thinking or should be thinking about cruising later this year (and there are some great values - even over the holidays).

Today only, September 15, 2009, Celebrity is running a special on the same cruise I took and two others:

13 Night Ancient Empires Cruise on Celebrity Equinox from Rome departing 10/10/09
11 Night Wine Cruise on Celebrity Mercury from Vancouver departing 10/12/09
17 Night Eastbound Panama Canal Cruise from San Diego departing 10/23/09 (very limited availability)

And, for some fun: The first person to email me with the location of each photo from my cruise on the Celebrity Equinox (the country is good enough) in the correct order, you will receive a $150 onboard credit on your next 2009 Celebrity cruise. (It doesn't have to be one of the three mentioned above.)

That is in addition to my normal discount/added benefits! New bookings only...so don't try cancelling and rebooking as that doesn't count.

Civility - What The Heck Happened To It...And How Do We Get It Back?

As you know I had an incredible time on the Celebrity Equinox. Celebrity did virtually everything it could do to provide me with an excellent premium cruise experience. The only problem: The lack of civility of some adults and the lack of supervision/discipline of some of the children.

As you also know I have been a staunch critic of some posters on CruiseCritic.com and the site's luxury board host's obvious permission for some favored posters to attack the opinions that disagree with the "everything is wonderful" stance of some or "I prefer Line X over Line Y". The problem: The lack of civility.

Last night I watched President Obama's speech to a joint session of Congress about his healthcare proposals. At one point in the speech Representative Wilson, from South Carolina, shouted to the President of the United States, "You lie!". I was mortified. Was it because I agree with President Obama on healthcare? Whether I do nor not is actually irrelevant. It is because there was a total lack of respect for the Office of the President and for the Congress. The problem: The lack of civility.

During breakfast at the local bagel shop this morning I was talking with some of my "breakfast buddies" about the incident and mentioned the foregoing. One person responded, "Obama is a not entitled to respect." I responded, "Regardless of whether you love or hate the guy, isn't the Office of the President entitled to that respect? I mean aren't judges entitled to it? Or teachers? Parents?" The response was, "You only give someone respect because you want something from them!" I was, once again, mortified. The problem is again, a lack of civility.

I am a member of the local Board of Education for grades K - 8 (5 to 14 year olds) and had a meeting this morning. I had the opportunity so I asked the superintendent this morning about the incident during the Obama speech and, without getting into too many details, I wondered if Civics - how our government works and why - was taught to the children. His response was that it is a great idea, but the State doesn't include it in the mandated curriculum. So I thought (but did not say) it must be the same sort of people as Congressman Wilson that established the mandated curriculum.

Now, clearly respecting positions irrespective of the person (be it the President or a teacher) is important, but so is being civil to the person irrespective of the position. And, as conduct has clearly devolved to the point that too many are not civil to either the position or the person, the infamous Golden Rule: "Do unto others as you would have them do unto you" comes to mind. [When was the last time you heard that? Thought so!]

I have been reading a longtime violator of these simple civilities travelogue of her time presently onboard the Regent Seven Seas Voyager. She has complained that service in La Veranda is so poor that she avoids the dining venue except for breakfast with service ranging from "good", to "spotty" to "non-existent"; Prime 7 received a "mixed" review; any special requests were either not performed or were done...but with special note of how hard a task it was, the "new" ice cream was nothing special and the "new" pizza was "dried out"; there is vibration felt throughout Prime 7 and the most aft suites, etc.

What is remarkable about the thread (found here is that since the comments are from her, rather than someone else, the comments from others are "civil". (How many threads on the Regent board have been removed, abandoned, edited, etc. because of the incivility of her relentless attacks, clutter and cheerleading demanding that the very same things are untrue or excusable?) To be fair she is not the only one who engages in such conduct, but she is to many infamous.

There are quite a few people that post on The Gold Standard Forum simply because an intelligent (civil) discussion with differing views can be had.

Civility is a good thing. Not "chair hogging". Making sure your children don't overrun whirlpools and adult areas, being sure they know how to "share" the space and respect others' needs. Weighing how important the result is before picking a fight in the dining room. Eventually, people might just let you off the elevator before getting in or hold a door open.

And then, whether you posting on a message board or are the President of the United States, you just might be able to express your opinion without someone, with a lack of civility or respect, interrupting you and calling you (actually or in effect) a liar.

Silversea Silver Spirit - Some Discussion of Design

On The Gold Standard Forum there is a bit of discussion about the conclusion by one member of the "press" (Anita Durham-Potter - expertcruiser.com) "From what I've seen -- when finished -- Spirit is a lot prettier and better planned than Seabourn Odyssey."

I have taken issue with that opinion because it is simply a bald statement unsupported by facts or examples. I am not saying it isn't true, but that I think the public is entitled to something more than hype or conclusions. This lead me to the following forum post which I want to share, with slight modification:

Noting that it is extraordinary for a cruise line to give the "press" access to sea trials and to allow them to photograph the various public spaces, a "red flag" most certainly has been hoisted. My question is "Why?" It is, alas, a question based upon a long history and many experiences where unfinished work (Anita Durham-Potter says 65%) does not accurately reflect the finished product (good or bad). Soft goods are very important.


Also, my concerns over everything being brown apparently are well-placed. Unless there are extraordinary soft goods, fabrics, and furniture this could be a real issue. Again the question is "Why?" A lack of contrasts and compliments tends to reflect immature (simplistic) interior design or a "offend no one" approach. Maybe some people will like it. But a monolithic approach to color usually is a warning that things are lacking in spatial design as well.

Most importantly, I don't need anyone "telling" me there is good design. I need someone to "show" me or "explain" it to me. Anita Durham-Potter has discussed suite amenities, but nothing of substance. (And, BTW, a butler cleaning my glasses? "Pretentious" is not a strong enough word to describe it. I do not think, even in the superyacht industry, asking a person to wipe anything personal to me is appropriate...for the person or myself.)

Now, as to substance, I can talk a bit about BAD design as I see it. I have taken one of Anita's photos to explain.

- The shower is small and I have concern for any larger and less mobile guests. Shaving legs??? And with the showerhead on the back wall, it means you are blessed with staring at the wall rather than having any feeling of openness. (Seabourn Odyssey, just as an example, has the showerhead on a side wall, so you can look out of the shower and feel a bit more open. Note: I have commented on its showers being a bit tight, too.)

- The storage shelves are too far from the vanity and look sufficiently close to the shower door to create a possible problem with being hit upon entry/exit and/or a drying towel knocking things off of them.

- The oversized vessel sinks are nice, but there is no real estate for toiletries.

- The faucets are quite utilitarian.

In another photo it looks like the access to the bathroom will be quite narrow as it conflicts with the bed. (As there are only two cots present and the one closest to the bathroom is sans mattress I must withhold judgment, but express my concern.)

I don't want to be seen as bashing the Silver Spirit, which is not yet complete, but I have an excellent source who is very critical of the furniture, fabrics and fittings, and the photos tell me a lot. Maybe that is why I am called "Iamboatman"...because it is more than being about "the cruise" and "selling it" to me.

Seabourn paid my way to go on the Inaugural of the Seabourn Odyssey, but I called it as I saw it...and Seabourn knew I would and I did. The fact that I was very impressed is not hype, I gave very detailed reasons why. I did the same as to the Celebrity Solstice/Celebrity Equinox. All I ask is that those that have access to the Silversea Silver Spirit give facts not hype.

Now, the reality of it is that "brown" is not going to horrifically offend and may well not be boring in the end and the bathroom is not going to make or break a ship or a cruise. Further, until the ship is further along, the ultimate overall design cannot be fully evaluated. My comments are not intended to "bash" the ship or Silversea, but rather to show how unsubstantiated comments are so easily dismissed or discounted.

Also, please keep in mind that I firmly believe the real "software" - the staff and crew - make the most difference and are the most critical factor when evaluating a ship. Cuisine is important too. That is why I am very much looking forward to my cruise on the Seabourn Spirit. If not for those things, it probably would be seen as nothing more than an older ship that is past its design prime.

So I will continue to provide facts, information and opinion on the Silver Spirit and I will not allow my ultimate desire for a having more luxury products to sell cause me to encourage you to book a particular ship because of some short term benefit to me...or even just wishful thinking.

In the meantime, best of luck bringing the Silversea Silver Spirit to market as a first class luxury cruise ship!

Silversea Silver Spirit- Some Details About Dining and Design

As the Silver Spirit engages in its sea trials, the time has come to explore this ship.

First, Silversea has started a blog on its newest ship, which is scheduled to debut on December 23, 2009, the Silver Spirit. You can find the blog here: http://www.silverspiritblog.com/ .

The place to start, I guess, is the ship's focus on dining venues. It boasts it will have six dining venues, though others have said it will have up to ten. The venues include:

The Restaurant - The main dining room for breakfast, lunch and dinner with exclusive menus by Relais & Châteaux.

La Terrazza - An indoor/outdoor restaurant with buffet-style dining for breakfast and lunch. In the evenings it is transformed into an la carte for venue with Italian cuisine.

Stars Supper Club - I am interested to see how well this venue works out. It is, I understand, intended to be more "old school" but with a modern touch, designed for pre-dinner cocktails and post-dinner dancing and nightclub-style entertainment with live music. If Silversea does this right it can be a real winner.

Le Champagne - This is Silversea's extra cost six-course culinary experience where fine wines are paired with a set tasting menu.

Sehshin Restaurant - In a somewhat disturbing trend (at least for me), Silversea has added a second extra cost restaurant, this one focused on Asian cuisine ranging from Kobe beef to seafood.

Pool Grill - Casual poolside dining for lunch and dinner including food from the grill and freshly made pizza.

There is, of course, another venue for dining: Your Suite. This is a very popular option, as well.

Someone posted on The Gold Standard Forum that the Silver Spirit looks like it is better designed and prettier than the Seabourn Odyssey. I am not sure how one draws that conclusion, but it is a good springboard for some of my following comments.

First, I know the "photos" are computer generated, but I am disappointed by two things right off the bat: Everythings seems so brown; and, the chairs seem to lack any style. I am interested to see what Silversea actually does with the final finishes. Understanding it has a more limited budget than anticipated (due to the economic downturn and very slow bookings), this may well still be a work in progress.

Second, I am not in favor of extra costing dining venues on a luxury cruise line. I can appreciate and accept having to pay extra for fine wines, but not food. Therefore, with a set menu, La Champagne I guess makes some sense. Expanding it to the Asian restaurant is a bit troubling. If I dine in Sehshein one time and order some nice sushi and a Kobe beef steak, the cost to Silversea might be $75.00. How does that really compare to my ordering a bit of caviar each day? (Is that extra cost now?) By comparison, on the Celebrity Equinox I paid less than $150 per day, so a $30 charge for dining in Murano (or lesser amounts in the other specialty restaurants), just makes economic sense.
I also found the comment that the Silver Spirit was better designed than the Seabourn Odyssey of interest. So I took a look at the deck plans. I am not seeing anything in layout that is better; different, but not better. For example, the casino and shops are on Deck 8 with no other reason to be there, the spa is similarly segregated from the rest of the ship, there are three restaurants converging on the same entry, etc. On the other hand, the Panorama Lounge does look like it will be a very nice venue.

Also, a point I have not made before: Why did Silversea name it ship with the same name as a Seabourn one, the Seabourn Spirit? Imitation may be a sincere form of flattery, but then again, it may be designed to confuse the marketplace. In the "spirit" of hoping for a "whisper" of good faith and no desire to "cloud" the issues, I do not want to over"shadow" the fair "wind"s desired for this new ship. So let's opine about what we know and not turn things into a Silversea vs. Seabourn thing. They are two different products and, as noted in a prior blog entry, there is very little cross-over between the lines.

I hope to receive more details on the new ship soon.

You can join the discussion on the related thread on The Gold Standard Forum.